Perkins Wine Series #4
Ageing Burgundy
The Carriage Hall, Plumtree Thursday 6 March 2014

Nine intrepid WING members mini-bussed to Perkins Carriage Hall to join this fine red Burgundy tasting (7 tables of 10) hosted by Peter Bamford (of Modern French wines) and David Bennett, a local wine guru. The evening started off with David telling us about the intricacies of Burgundy (fruit turning to secondary aromas as it ages, serve at 12 -13 degrees, tiny production when compared to Bordeaux, recent price hikes, the importance of the terroir and the producer, together with stories of his time travelling round the area). We then enjoyed a tasting of 4 red Burgundy’s (young to old – 2010, 2005, 2002 and 1995 – see below), had some lovely food (duck and sticky toffee pudding – all delicious) importantly all washed down with even more red Burgundy (and a Chablis premiere cru ) including some of the 1995 and 2002 “borrowed” (by someone who will remain unnamed but knows who she is) from neighbouring tables who were unfortunate enough to bring cars! Hurrah! Anyway to the wines (or what I can remember anyway – please feel free to add more intelligent comments!).

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1) 2010 Savigny -lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières, Chandon de Brialles
Very light colour. A delicate nose – vegetal then sweet fruit, slight tannin, raspberry, plum, cherry, strawberry, hint of compost and farmyard. Tight. Acidity constricting the fruit. Probably in a closed period. Seems a little young (which was the point I think). Maybe would benefit from decanting a few hours before drinking. Still nice though!

 

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2) 2005 Nicolas Potel Beaune 1er Cru Pertuisots
(Nicolas sold his name (from 2007 vintages onward) and now has Domaine Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene).
Nose was of lilies and rotting fruit. (actually lovely!). On the palate you could find raspberry, plum, sour cherry. A good acid line. Good length. More approachable than the 2010 and probably the best to drink without food.

 

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3) 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Drouhin- Laroze
(this is a declassified grand Cru).
A very complex nose including dirty dishcloth, cheese, farmyard, cabbage and onion (for me anyway). Quite a rich meaty palate. Relatively little fruit. A smooth spicy finish, very dry, tannic, masculine, savoury. Really mouth drying without food. When drunk with the duck it really came into its own and overtook the 2005!

 

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4) 1995 Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravière, Remoissenet et Fils
The nose was a little quieter than the 2002 – mostly compost and spirity fruit. On the palate an abundance of sour cherry and a lovely balance of aromatic compounds and similar flavours to the nose, indicating evolution and unity. Quite lean. Good.

 

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5) 2010 Chablis 1er Cru Vau-Ligneau Domaine de la Motte Tastevinage
I can’t remember much about it (it came along too late in the proceedings for my concentration!). If anyone else can remember – please add a comment!

Overall a lovely evening with some great food and great wine – good value too and the opportunity to taste wines that you wouldn’t normally get access to! Have to confess though that my Friday was not quite as productive as I would have liked!

The next wine “do” at The Carriage Hall is on Thursday 20th June and is a “Call my bluff” for wine lovers! Sounds fun. Cost £45 per head. See http://www.perkins-family.co.uk/news for further information. Another minibus? Let us know!

John & Ann

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