On Monday 7th November the WING group met to taste 2012 White Burgundy, led by John and Ann.

A counter point to last month’s tasting this shows a “difficult” white vintage: poor flowering; extensive hail damage; small berries; yields down 30%… Although there may be no vintage “style” Jancis says that gentle handling produced some fresh “classic” style wines – very good at best – but sometimes lean when young – only time telling if they round out….

I came late to this tasting due to another commitment so my notes were made in roughly half the usual time so are a little truncated. If any of my colleagues wish to add through the comments section: I will be most grateful…

Here are my notes:


POUILLY FUISSÉ “CLOS MARIE” (Domaine La Soufrandise)
Vague melon fruit hints, quite a rich nutty note. Palate slightly “green” fresh with a pithy fruit and citrus line.

SAINT-VERAN “PRC” (Domaine des Deux Roches)
Slightly dark with a nose showing oily hints and some “biscuit” tones – going over into a a slightly faulty polish scent… Palate is dull with oily and bitter flavours. Not at all like tasted when bought – 2 years ago when it seemed a little like the Beaune (wine 5 below) – with fruit outlined by high citric acidity requiring another 2 or 3 years… To complicate matters another pouring (90 minutes later) seemed fresher with more mineral finish… So bemused was I that I opened another bottle 5 days later… It was a touch lighter in colour, and a more expressive nose with a saline hint – although it must be said something a little over-evolved to it – a hint of over-ripe greengage, maybe. The palate is much fresher with lots of citric acidity, sweet fruit notes and a slightly spicy (fenugreek?) counterpoint and a mineral finish. Evolving more quickly than one might imagine and an odd soft/hard balance but much better than the WING example, and very good with roast chicken. Who knows – the first was a slightly faulty bottle maybe?

RULLY 1er CRU MARISSOU (Domaine Dury)                                     
Evolved, quite big nose with oily and nutty notes and some slight pungency. Palate is open, rich, quite impressive … but… a little sweet. A developed example which one might pick for a Californian..

MERCUREY BLANC (Domaine Lucian Jacob)                     
An oddity – a barrel made in hail damaged extremis Lemony nose with some confectionery and baked goods scents. Palate is slightly apple tinged (slight oxidation?) with a bitter twist and a lightly mineral finish..

BEAUNE CLOS SAINT DÉSIRÉ (Domaine Demougeot)    
Another rarity – white Beaune is only 5% of the appellation’s production. Palate is fresh, with citrus and stony scents. Palate is sharp with citrus and stony dryness, slightly closed and certainly restrained but with length and signs of opening on the finish. Reminiscent of what I expected from the PRC, and needing a couple of years – but good! My favourite!

MEURSAULT 1er CRU Genévrière (Domaine Jean Monnier)                                 
Hints of citrus, some floral notes with pear and apple appearing… Palate is rich but with balancing citric acidity and some sweet fruit – melon? (though not honeydew, something more stone fruit inclined…) Good, and restrained for a Meursault.

Difficult to draw any general conclusion from this tasting, certainly no vintage trademark, and above all yet another cautionary tale about how difficult it is to pre-assess white Burgundy. It’s fun trying, though….

Thanks so much John and Ann

Until next time…