🍷 W1NG APRIL ICC TASTING NOTES – WINES OF URUGUAY

On 4^th April 2024 the Wine in Nottingham Group met for the latest tasting of the 2024 season. The theme of this tasting was “The Wines of Uruguay”.

I have already outlined the background for this tasting in the previous post, you can (re)read it by clicking back – so I won’t repeat it here. Suffice to say the wines tasted were chosen as a good quality reflection of what’s available from this emerging country.

Here are my notes:

ALBARIÑO RESERVE 2022 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   12.5 %   –   ND John Wines £19
This showed some floral notes on the nose, as well as the usual peach/pear fruit notes. The palate has mineral background to a quite rich stone-fruit centre, with increasing citric, lip-smacking acidity. A good full-ish, food-friendly version of the grape, which by proximity to its tasting last August invites comparisons with the “La Trucha” Albariño. This is indeed similar, and very good – but perhaps not quite sharing La Trucha’s fineness or subtlety.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

“ESTIVAL” WHITE 2020 (PABLO FALLABRINO)   –   13.5 %   –   Wadebridge Wines £20
This blend of late harvested Gewürztraminer (60%) and Muscat (10%) with early picked Chardonnay (30%) has a very lemon scented, even lemon zest, attack presumably from the Chardonnay. Under that and a little recessed are the sort of ginger and floral hints one would expect from Gewürztraminer. The palate is a little unintegrated and has some lychee softness in the middle, but builds back to a lemon-peel freshness at the finish. This wine is discomforted by appearing after the Albariño, and tasted alone the next day has integrated a little more and appears fresher…
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

MARSELAN RESERVE 2021 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   12.5 %   –   ND John Wines £19
The Marselan grape, a Cab. Sauv. x Grenache – newly permitted in Bordeaux, has an open nose with herby hints (rosemary?) and red fruit. The palate has blackberry and sour red plum fruit with fine tannins and warm finish with a mineral and acidic backbone. Rather a nice wine and more satisfying, IMO, than a similarly priced Merlot – whose structural and viticultural qualities it might replace on a Bordeaux Estate? The next day it too was better integrated and resolved, allowing a bit more varietal distinctiveness. Good.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

“NOTOS” 2020 (PABLO FALLABRINO)   –   13 %   –   Wadebridge Wines £20
Well – this Nebbiolo (with 10% Tannat) had fresh and dried berries on the nose together with (and I don’t think this is prejudgment) Tar and Roses!!! The palate is very dry but there is supple and subtle fruit underpinned with a long strand of fresh acidity and fine tannins lifting the wine into a complex finish. Lovely, not quite Barolo, but showing 90% of that wine’s attractions for 1/2 (?) price. The favourite on the night and mine too…
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ^16.5/₂₀

TANNAT RESERVE 2021 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   14%   –   ND John Wines £19
This very dark, vin noir has aromas of plums and a raspberry note with a spicy hint. The palate has a tannic profile distinctive of the grape but riper and rounder versions of it than found here in Uruguay (or in SW France) 15 years ago. This allows the fruit profile – the same plums and raspberry – to show too. In fact the wine reminded me of a (younger) 100% Tannat I tasted in Salies-de-Béarn (at Domaine Lapeyre et Guilhemas) last October. That said this is a little four-square at the moment, maybe needing another 2 or 3 years?
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

SINGLE VINEYARD PETIT VERDOT 2020 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   14.5 %   –   ND John Wines £27
This highly coloured wine has a spirity, even downright alcoholic, nose which masks a hint of blueberry fruit. The palate has a similar profile with Italianate flavours: leather and spice – masking, rather than complementing hints of blueberry fruit and wood. The woody sense is textural rather than the effect of oak: the wine is in 4th-use large casks for 12-18 months. This wine is very big, with big separate components achieving a long and impressive wine that somehow wasn’t very pleasurable. A day later there was some integration and maybe another half-point of pleasure. One can see what a small amount adds to a Bordeaux blend, but the least interesting red IMO, and quite expensive.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

A rather interesting tasting I thought, and in the opinion of the group too. A range of well made wines with distinctive character and – in the main – showing quality and interest throughout. Certainly in my mind it aroused an interest in the capability of Uruguay in the wine market and a curiosity to taste further…. Arinarnoa anyone?

À Bientôt

🍷 A Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasting

Last Friday a small cross-section of the former W1NG Tutured Tasting group made their way to Paul and Anna’s house to taste some Châteauneuf.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first area to be classified in the modern AOC system, in 1936. It takes it’s name from the small town at its centre, but extends over 5 communes – covering about 3,200 hectares. 95% of production is red, the remainder white. Permitted grape varieties number 13: 8 red and 5 white, and quite unusually the white grapes can be included in the red blend. The main red grapes are Grenache; Syrah; Mourvèdre; Cinsault and Counoise – but there are 3 other lesser known red varieties: Muscardin; Vaccarèse and Terret – heard of them before? Me neither! On the white side, permitted are Clairette; Rousanne; Bourboulenc; Picpoul and Picardin – I expect all but the last will be familiar. Most red Châteauneuf-du-Pape is based on Grenache, but the rules don’t exclude – for example – a 100% Syrah or 100% Mourvèdre..

Here’s a map showing the area:

So, while the blend of grapes is one factor in the range of wine styles within the appellation – another is soil composition. The map shows 8 general styles of soil structure – nearly every style has 2 or 3 sub-categories – theoretically influencing the wine.
In general, sandy soil makes for fruity open styles; limestone for more acidity and freshness – and also tannins; clay for darker fruit, power and structure; mixed soils add to the vintage-expressiveness of the blend…
Another factor is freshness, in this area acidity in the wines are helped by cooler nights and therefore bigger diurnal temperature ranges. On the other hand the prevalence of large heat-retaining stones, called Galets, on the surface in some areas can mitigate that …

Of course some growers will have holdings in one place with a distinctive terroir – others will have holdings in several places around the area, with different soils which can be factored into the blend.

Anna and Paul decided to focus the tasting on two producers: Domaine Raymond Usseglio and Domaine Cristia who exemplify these two sorts of geographic sources.

Domaine USSEGLIO is based in the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself, but the domain has 24 hectares in various parcels throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape – in varied soils, including sandstone, red clay, sandy hillsides, limestone rocks and rolling galets well exposed to the sun. These conditions, and their practice of suiting grapes to parcels, allows a measured maturity and depth to the wines – they claim.

Domaine CRISTIA is a biodynamic estate of 19Ha of 90% sandy terroirs located in the eastern sector of the appellation (“Cristia” can be seen on the map above). Most of the plots benefit from a North–East exposure, which gives the vines a freshness and allows you to obtain grapes and wines with supple and elegant tannins. A single plot, located in the place called “l’Arnesque” to the east of the appellation, is covered with rolled pebbles which bear witness to the passage of the Rhône, and benefits from full sunshine. The heat absorbed during the day is thus returned at night, which allows the maintenance of a constant temperature which is good for maturity but keeps acid in check.

We started the tasting with a pair or 2004s – one from each producer. Here are some notes:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 Domaine Usseglio (75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre)
Nose has a fruit attack with some herbal, almost minty or menthol notes. The palate has an immediate fruit and stony minerality with hints of blackberry… more forest floor, slightly mushroom and even truffle appear later. Changes even more with further time showing some spice, fine structure and deeper flavours.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 Domaine de Cristia (80% G, 5% S, 5% M, 5% Cinsault, 5% Counoise)
This is slightly darker with fresher acidity, suggesting food. The nose has a lighter fragrance but bigger softer flavours and a warmer overall impression. The nose remains quiet, and the palate more open – with herb rather than spice and a hint of liquorice on the finish.

There followed the same pair but from 2007 – quite a well ranked vintage, although I’ve so far always preferred the ’04.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 Domaine Usseglio (80%, 10% M, 6% S, 2% Cinsault, 2% Counoise)
Similar nose to the ’04 but a touch lighter and slightly dilute seeming. Against that the nose had slightly more subtlety and even floral hints – lots of light touch perfume but not integrated, and similar suggestions of secondary flavours but not (yet) fully resolved. Compared to the same Domaine’s ’04 it seemed somehow incomplete – could it still be evolving? After 17 years??

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 Domaine de Cristia (same grapes as 2004)
This was a big contrast to the Usseglio ’07, and along similar lines to the first pair. This was slightly spirity with cherry brandy notes – palate is soft and sweet with less complexity and structure and easy to quaff. In many ways this spoke of the lightness from a sandy terroir even more than the ’04.

Finally another pair served blind – a 2009 from one of these two Domaines, set alongside another 2009 wine from a different appellation!! Which is the Châteauneuf-du-Pape? Which Domaine is it?? What is the other appellation???

Wine 5 had quite a hard nose with slightly burnt fruit tones, more spice and recessed fruit on the palate, opening a bit with time. Compared to 6 it seemed to have simpler fruit and more rustic tannins…
Wine 6 had a slightly lighter slightly softer nose, finer tannins some warm alcohol hints, peppery notes, a tighter structure and the hint of secondary flavours beginning…

I think we quickly concluded that both were Southern Rhône wines with similar grape blends, and although the flavour profiles were very similar a consensus emerged that wine 6 was finer, more complex and probably the Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While the contrasting wine probably came from another named village of S. Rhône. Several villages were named, but John trumped everyone by guessing Gigondas – which proved to be the case!

5 was Gigondas 2009 Domaine Brusset (50G, 30S, 20M)
6 was Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 Domaine Usseglio (same grapes as 2007)

Overall a very interesting tasting: my personal favourite was the first wine; I generally preferred the Usseglio to the Cristia and 2004 seemed the best vintage, right now, to my palate. In the round I felt we could detect the difference between a sandy soil wine and one with more limestone and clay under the grapes! In addition it showed that Châteauneuf is capable of fineness as well as power in comparison to other S. Rhône wines.

So – congratulations to John. And profound thanks to Anna and Paul for the wines, the organisation of the tasting and hosting a pleasant, informative and convivial evening.

À Bientôt

🍷 Xmas Wines & 2023 Wine Review

Hello everyone. 2023 draws to a close and – other considerations notwithstanding – it’s time to reflect on my wine experiences this year. “Other considerations” won’t have to stand for long – I’ll be thinking about the year in politics and otherwise soon enough. But this is about wine…

Actually a personal sustained high point has been the series of wines I’ve been drinking this Xmas:

KAMPTAL RIED 1^ÖTW “LAMM” GRÜNER VELTLINER 2020 (SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG).
RIED 1^ÖTW  means 1^st Growth Vineyard – referring to the LAMM vineyard. Good GV often gives the impression of getting richer as it ages, and this wine has certainly done that since last tasted a year ago. It has notes of peach and citrus and a spicy note, but the searing grapefruit acidity is rounder – perhaps more orange or mandarin – while still retaining that citrus pith note. Long and with mounting complexity – this was great with a pork stroganoff.

AMONTILLADO SINGULAR BOTAS (DIATOMISTS)
This wine featured in probably my favourite tasting of the year: A Sherry evening at Brigitte Bordeaux where it stood out as my favourite. Here again, drunk with a chicken and sweetcorn soup with some (cheaper) sherry in it, it showed its dazzling qualities again…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2012 (CANTINA NEGRAR)
This well aged Amarone is absolutely correct and typical: aromas of plums and prunes with a hint of almond/cherry; palate with rich prune flavours and a line of supporting acidity and a bitter tannic chocolate finish. Wonderful with duck…

IRANCY “LES CAILLES” 2017 (RICHOUX)
We bought this when visiting Chablis last January. Irancy is a small village about 10 miles SW of Chablis, giving its name to an area planted with Pinot Noir. Thus it’s the most northerly Red Burgundy village! Many Chablis growers will produce a cheap and cheerful Irancy, so we went to the village in search of something a bit better. As chance would have it the only grower we found giving tasting at that moment was Felix Richoux, who turns out to be a top grower – and this is his top wine (about €27 at cellar door). It has an open fruit nose: darker cherry and vibrant cranberry; with some herby hints. The fruit is lighter on the palate, a little dwarfed by a pleasing but long line of acidity, and there is a stony tannic finish. It is a little young, and more reminiscent of Mercurey than Côte-d’Or reds. But perfect with traditional (though slightly reconstructed) Xmas Turkey dinner!

ALSACE GEWÜRTRAMINER 2019 (BEBLENHEIM)
We bought this a couple of years ago to drink with Thai cuisine – including a traditional boxing day Thai Turkey green curry. This isn’t an expensive wine, and it comes from one of Alsace’s best 2 co-ops (at Beblenheim – the other is at Turckheim), and was chosen for it’s relatively low alcohol and residual sugar (13%; 13g/l) compared to most examples. This therefore has more rose petal than lychee perfumes with hints of ginger and a fresh palate helped by a round but persistent acidity. Perfect for the job!

Looking back over the year, its has been marked by a return to tastings – both at the cellar door and in Nottingham – though at a slower rate than pre-COVID. I led three tastings of the W1NG group, all reported on this blog (Loire Cabernet Franc – February; Auteur Wines of Philip von Nell – August and, recently, Medoc Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels). All were enjoyable to conduct and to see old friends again, but most interesting in wine terms, for me, was the last. For one thing all the wines were new to me too, and I found it intriguing to be comparing wines where the difference relied on structural subtleties: mostly the slightly different tannins and their place in the overall wine make-up.

W1NG also had three tastings led by Brigitte Bordeaux (Posh v Plonk – April; Alpine Wine – June; and Greek Wine – October), the first two are reported on this blog too – the last I was unable to attend.
Brigitte Bordeaux also held a couple of tastings at her eponymous wine Bar – a Spanish Tapas matching tasting – where the highlight was a Mencia; and the above-mentioned Sherry evening. Also in England I attended an South Africa Tasting with Richard Kelley at Hart’s restaurant where my favourite wine was a Cabernet Franc (quelle surprise)! I also went to a Wine Society USA tasting at Albert hall, Nottingham where so many wines were impressive, but big and expensive…

I also had the pleasure of tasting in Chablis and Irancy earlier in the year and in the little known wine area of Béarn. Famous areas such as Jurançon and Madiran lie to the East of the AC Béarn itself – but good quality Tannat and Gros Manseng can be found there.

So – all in all – 2023 was a much more satisfying and interesting wine-year than the 3 preceding years so what is my wine of the year?

Several bottle highlights are hinted in the above and some of the tastings mentioned… Philip von Nell’s Raiffy Malbec; La Trucha Albariño; and Susumaniello were great discoveries – although, to be fair, I tasted them first in 2022. Other highlights were: the Mencia I alluded to above, along with the GV noted in this post; a wonderful Château Haut-Bergeron 2005 tasted with our French neighbours back in July; and my favourite revelation from helping BB with the Wine Trader tasting Domeniile Averesti Rosé…

However my final vote goes to the sherry: AMONTILLADO SINGULAR BOTAS (DIATOMISTS).

Try it…

À Bientôt

🍷 Medoc Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels – TASTING NOTES

The W1NG wine group met on Thursday December 7th to taste 6 (of the 14) 2019 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels (CBE). All the wines were sourced from Tanners, in cases of all 14 CBEs. The average price is about £25 a bottle. The six selected were a cross section of the communes, the range of assemblages, and all having been rated by independent tasters – whose scores are recorded in the text.

The wines were tasted by the group on a cool-ish wet evening, with the six wines poured over an hour or so. In this setting its fair to say all seemed young. However there were 3 late no-shows, so there was a good sample-sized portion left in each bottle. I poured them all again 24 hours later, so they were all lined up in front of me to taste direct comparisons first, and then with food (sausages!). I think it both unsurprising and fair to say that every wine improved with the time – probably equivalent to 3 years or so in the cellar? The improvement was worth at least half a point for every wine and those are the scores I give below.
In most cases – with food things the wines seemed improved again… however this was uneven. Wines 1, 2 and 3 marginally, though 2 a little more; wine 4 actually seemed worse and 5 was not enhanced. The biggest difference was wine 6 which seemed better integrated and the food counterpointed some hidden complexity elevating the wine to equal top. If I was buying now for drinking in (say) 2027-2030 I’d think the 2 Saint-Estèphes (2 & 3) and the Margaux (6) would be the better bets!

Here are my notes:

1 CHÂTEAU LESTAGE (Listrac-Médoc)   14.5 %  
[The Assemblage of this wine, in %, is: Cabernet Sauvignon (CS) 31   Merlot (M) 64   Cabernet Franc (CF) 3   Petit Verdot (PV) 2]
Quite a recessed nose with some hints of an earthy berry fruit. The palate has quite a soft acidity and not strong, but rather coarse tannins giving a muddy character… a little improved later with the same earthy fruit softening the tannin but still a bit muddy,
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

2 CHÂTEAU LE BOSCQ (Saint-Estèphe)   13.5 %
[CS 46  M 46   CF 2   PV 6]
A darker nose with recessed black fruit and some non-fruit elements (tar?). Immediate strong tannins but finer – the other way round to the previous wine’s. Palate has woody hints and strong citric acidity giving a fresher feel with the fruit only appearing near the end. More going on than the previous wine and some time to wait.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

3 CHÂTEAU LE CROCK (Saint-Estèphe)   14 %
[CS 46  M 43   CF 7   PV 4]
Fruitier nose with black berry flavours apparent. Quite firm but balanced tannins combining with a freshening line right to the long finish. This has everything one expects from this level claret and showing signs of integration already – very good. The highest scoring in other comparisons and the favourite wine with the group on the night… for me too – both then and a day later.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

4 CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET (Haut Médoc)   14 %
[CS 54  M 44   CF –   PV 2]
This is inky dark with spicy plum notes on the nose. Open and much more approachable with the same plum flavours – dense and smooth but rather too simple for me. Later even more so but much of these qualities disappeared with food. A little too much of a quaffing wine? This Château changes their assemblage quite a lot from year to year – I wonder if this is designed to make a wine that is more approachable when young?
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

5 CHÂTEAU BELLE-VUE (Haut Médoc)   14 %
[CS 48  M 30   CF 1 + Carménère 1   PV 20]
This has an initial pungency, with almost medicinal notes – later some dark peppery fruit. Tannins rather prominent and a rather iron mineral undertone with that slightly medicinal element penetrated the fruit in the mid palate. This wasn’t helped with food and rather disappointed…
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

6 CHÂTEAU D’ARSAC (Margaux)   13.5 %
[CS 72  M 28   CF –   PV –]
This has more open fruit on the nose – raspberry and blackcurrant. The palate has a long lifting acidity mingling with the fruit in the middle palate. The tannins are dryish and on first taste concentrated towards the finish. But the overall package seems lighter after so much tannin before, but later this lightness appears only due to that contrast. With food this comes into its own showing its complexity and interplay well. Undoubtedly young and comes a little behind the Le Crock but with food pretty much its equal
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶⁺/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

A rather cerebral tasting with wines that are so similar and relatively young in their journey towards maturity. All have perceptible tannins, similar fruit levels in the dark red to black range, and refreshing acidity. Thus the distinctions exist in the structure: quality of the tannins: supple or harsh; fine or coarse; strong or light… or in the length, interplay and timing of the lines of fruit or aciditity.. or whether fruit concurs with the tannins (Wine 1) or acidity (3 & 6) or tannins concur with acidity or all three lines intermingle! Such a preoccupation with structure makes for quite a rarified tasting… but a beguiling and interesting one in my opinion.

À Bientôt

🍷 A SHERRY TASTING AT BRIGITTE BORDEAUX

About a week ago I went to a Sherry Tasting, at Brigitte Bordeaux to mark International Sherry Week. There we were treated to 6 wines from Diatomists, a modern sherry producer trying to rebalance modern viticulture and viniculture with traditional sherry aging processes. Diatomists were represented at the tasting by Antonio Morenés – one of a triumvirate leading the company.

Antonio started by explaining the origin of their name – from Diatoms, simple algae that have transparent, opaline silica, cell walls… they are the only such organism on earth. They happen to be helpful to the climate, converting CO2 into organic carbon in the form of sugars and releasing Oxygen.
However their interest here is geological rather than environmental. The sherry area was under sea for millions of years and Diatoms deposited a silt of their fossils 400m deep before the area became land. This layer was brought near to the surface by tectonic movement, and in the modern era the soil is rich in diatom fossils below a chalky top soil. They retain moisture helping vines to flourish in very hot dry growing seasons, encouraging deep root growth of up to 12 metres.

Antonio’s personal story is quite interesting: he is the 7th generation of sherry producers in his family, but the line is not continuous… In the 1970s his father got out of the business when he judged an overreliance of the resilience of the Solera system was leading to neglect of the basics of producing good wine: excellent viticulture and vinicultural practices!

You can read the rest of the story through the link at the top of this post. The question is: “Is the wine good?” Here are my notes:

The first wine was a freshly made, not fortified, white wine from Palomino Fino.
Diatomists Sotovelo 2022 is light (12% alcohol) and very dry. It is aged under flor for 8 months and has a slightly floral nose and hints of apple from the grape and salt from the flor. It has sharp acidity and a dry chalky element on the palate with an apricot hint. The structure reminds one of Chablis (no surprise as the soil structure has similarities to the Kimmeridgian soil of that wine area). Overall it reminded me a bit more of a cooler Chenin Blanc (Jasnières say). A lovely wine @ £22 (for 75ml bottle).

Then on to the proper Sherry (all supplied in 375ml, half, bottles – for the price of £19.90 [unless otherwise noted])!

Diatomists Manzanilla (£14.90)
Aged for 5 years, this has very fresh attack with appley fruit and typical salty notes. More balanced than most Manz. with the same fruit notes as the previous white wine peeking through. A very good fino/Manz. and a good step up from traditional market wines, but twice the price…
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀

Diatomists Amontillado
This has 5 years maturation under flor, as a fino, and then 7 years in an oxidative Solera – so a 12 year old wine… It shows wonderful complexity on the nose and the palate leads with fino notes before engaging in interplay with rich fruit and nut tones in the middle palate. The finish is memorable with – somehow – sweet flavours without sweetness. A triumph, my favourite on the night and a pretty strong candidate for the best sherry I’ve ever tasted!
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁸/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

Diatomists Oloroso
This isn’t usually my favorite style of sherry although good examples can work well with the right accompaniment. My issue is that I find the oxidative elements often “tighten” in the middle palate seeming to restrict the development of complexity in the wine. This example – aged for 12 years in a 140 year old solera – has a rich mouthfeel and a normal dry-white-wine level of citric acidity. The combination gives a relative “release” just where most Oloroso close up, and opens the palate to a broader woody finish. Very very good.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^17.5/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

Diatomists Medium
This is a blend of 15 year old Oloroso with 10% PX then another 5 years in barrel. The wine is about 80g/l sugar so a balanced sweetness with a cast of many of the recurring characters of the range: walnut, citrus – with peel notes this time, apricot… A versatile wine having a similar place to medium sweet unfortified wines… maybe with a salty starter or cheese. A little less interesting – for me – than the wines served either side of it… But would probably appear very good in other company.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀

Diatomists Pedro Ximenez
This comes in at 120g/l sugar and is made from PX grapes sorted twice – before and after drying. Very sweet with a strikingly clear acidic lift – figs with a sharper apricot counter-note. Lovely, almost a dessert rather than an accompaniment to dessert.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀

These are stunning wines with a couple of class-leading examples. They are admittedly at a premium price but at or near good-value even at that premium. They are well worth tasting – maybe at Brigitte Bordeaux… to whom I extend many thanks for a memorable evening.

À Bientôt

AUGUST W1NG TASTING: Wines from importer Philip von Nell.

On 3^rd August 2023 the Wine in Nottingham Group met for the latest tasting of the 2023 season. The theme of this tasting of the season was to sample wines from a local small importer, and see if one could discern any specific style to his range from this sample.

The importer trades under the name Philip von Nell (PvN), and mainly supplies the on-trade including some prestigious restaurants in Nottingham. It is in this connection, as recounted in the last post, that this tasting came about. While trialing wines for a restaurant wine list I found a final decision came to direct choice between a PvN wine and another, larger but good quality, supplier. In 15 or 20 such taste-offs I found that most cases (80%?) I preferred the PvN wine for inclusion because it had a richer middle palate.

So this tasting was to explore the wines and see if this middle palate character was a continuing feature – reflecting, possibly, the owner’s own taste?

Here are my notes:

ALBARIÑO ‘LA TRUCHA’ 2020 (FINCA GARABELOS)  –  13 %  –  Estimated Retail Price £25
An impressive Albariño. It starts with floral and peach hints and then an impressively rich palate whose fruit also peach but with a tropical twist – is strong and long enough to classify it as a “rich” wine. However, whose lively, citric – even grapefruit – acidity and mineral elements make it qualify for the description “crisp”. A lovely interplay of perspectives as the wine evolves. Lovely and a star of the night.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

VERDECA ‘AΣΚΟΣ’ 2022, (MASSERIA LI VELI) SALENTO, PUGLIA  –  13 %  –  ERP £26
This is an almost forgotten Salento grape, made by the producer in a special range (as with wine 5). There are only 800ha of this grape and this is the highest rated expression! This has a a heavy floral (lily?) and hints of pineapple and peach on the nose. Again a rich palate with a dashing cross of saline minerality, a touch of bitter pith and warm acidity. A similar general profile to the previous wine, with darker flavours and a more specific food match (oily fish maybe?).
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

MERCUREY “LES BACS” 2009 (DOMAINE DEBRAY)  –  13 %  –   nla
Assessment of this wine, which has considerable age for a white Burgundy, was made more difficulty by one bottle having considerably more oxidation that the other. The first bottle was slightly darker and had immediate sherry and apple notes. However the second bottle showed some flinty minerality, a slight flowery note, and peachy citrus following in the middle palate and a caramel tinge (probably itself slightly oxidative) at the finish. Interesting enough, although probably just losing freshness to secondary flavours, and probably at peak 3 or 4 years ago. Against this the first bottle seemed as if it had gone over about 3 years ealier.
Ratings (for second bottle, for first bottle: score 2 or 3 points lower):     Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value: n/a  

‘RUBERETO’ 2014 (TENUTA ORSUMELLA) SUPER TUSCAN  –  13.5 %  –  ERP £29
This is a Cabernet / Sangiovese blend and shows it quite clearly – the attack is all cabernet: black fruits; spice; a little wood. Then the middle shows a sweet and sour cherry fruit going into a slightly dried fruit and darker acidity. Quite a nice wine, good for a red meat roast… but a bit Cabernet then Sangiovese, which makes the middle palate stand out again! Maybe greater integration and complexity might follow after another two or three years.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

SUSUMANIELLO ‘AΣΚΟΣ’ 2020 (MASSERIA LI VELI) SALENTO, PUGLIA  –  14.5 %  –  ERP £26
This has immediate prune, cherry, berry impact which you might identify as Salentino even if you can’t pick the grape. In fact an indigenous grape which is little known – shown here by a leading proponent in their dedicated local grape – “AΣΚΟΣ” – range. The middle palate is very rich and luscious with berries and spicy leather hints, some chocolatey hints but a supple freshness too. A wonderful discovery.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

MALBEC, CUVÉE RESERVE 2016 (BODEGA RAFFY)  –  14 %  –  ERP £ 26
This has ample fruit, damson and plum skin, notes combined with very dark, slightly smokey and black fruit elements and a fresh citric acidity, the warmth of which reminds me of mandarin orange acidity. The palate is very succulent with the line of acidity flowing right through the wine and leading into the darker meatier hints! This has French grip and finesse aligned to Argentinian fruit making a very good Malbec, suitable for all sorts of cuisine. One of the best sub-£50 Malbecs I’ve tasted and my favourite.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

A note on prices: The Estimated Retail Prices (ERP) calculated here are based on Philip von Nell’s Trade list from May 2023 – marked up to achieve the retailer a Gross Profit (GP) of (a fairly typical) 33%. + VAT. Of course that trade list will soon be obsolete with the increase in duty later this month. In addition the PvN website needs updating to express a clear Retail (as opposed to Trade) offer, and under what conditions. That’s all for the future when all the other variables play out…

So… do these wines in general show notable richness in the middle palate? I think so – certainly true for the first 2 and the last 2. Wines 3 and 4 were a little harder to judge as they are perhaps too old and too young respectively. Although wine 4 is a rather nice wine which effects a change of focus in the middle palate – perhaps with the same effect? Anyway, some good wines pitched at a fair price IMO.

À bientot

JUNE ICC W1NG TASTING – ALPINE WINE

The W1NG group met on 1st June at the Nottingham International Community Centre to taste 6 “Aline Wines” led by Brigitte Bordeaux. The Tasting comprised 3 Swiss Wines; 2 Austrian and 1 Italian.

Here are my notes:

2021 Mont-Sur-Rolle Grand Cru, Domaine de Maison Blanche.
Region: La Côte, Switzerland Grape: Chasselas Alcohol: 12% £25.20
Quite a light nose – some hints of orchard fruit, maybe peach or apricot but light touch. The palate has a creamy note, light fruit again and a bit bland. Light acidity helped by a slightly peppercorn hint at the end.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^14.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹³/₂₀

2021 Doral “Expression”, Cave de La Cote Uvavins.
Region: La Côte, Switzerland Grape: Doral Alcohol: 13% £25.20
Doral is a Chasselas x Chardonnay. Fresh citrus on the nose and more pronounced peachy hints. The palate has more acidity and verve – both richer and subtler than the first wine. Longer and with more character. After a while (40 minutes and a couple of degrees warmer a much more “chardonnay” profile: creamier with melon notes and a richer mouthfeel.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀

2017 Neuburger Leithaberg DAC, Weingut Kiss.
Region: Burgenland, Austria Grape: Neuburger Alcohol: 13.5% £18.92
From a warmer part of Austria. The nose has an initial pungency, which softens (somewhat) to a slightly volatile oily note. Palate has a rich over-ripe fruit line with more astringent acidity and a rather oily texture. Reminiscent of Semillon – but a bit too rich and extracted for drinking a bottle, IMO.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

2020 Schiava Grigia DOC Sonntaler, Kellerei Kurtatsch.
Region: Alto Adige, Italy Grape: Schiava Grigia Alcohol: 12.5% £23.16
Very pale wine with a light Gamay character – fruity (strawberry?) and a slightly confectionery hint of – if you remember them – opal fruits! Palate follows and a slightly over-sweet hint – would be chillable and reminds me of a young, low range Beaujolais.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

2012 St. Laurent Trift, Weingut Kiss.
Region: Burgenland, Austria Grape: St. Laurent Alcohol: 13.5% £21.00
Slightly smokey nose, with quite evolved non-fruit elements: leather; sous-bois and a woody (not oak) hint. Remnants of a black fruit line, diminished by time, blackberry maybe, and a structure like a minor Bordeaux. Not much evolution left but would be a blast with a sausage dinner. My favourite, just but not for keeping!
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

2020 Gamaret-Garanoir “Expression”, Cave de La Cote Uvavins.
Region: La Côte, Switzerland Grape: Gamaret and Garanoir Alcohol: 13.5% £26.23
This has cherry and blackberry fruit nose with a soft, slightly spicy palate with some well integrated tannins and fruit acidity. Again reminiscent of Beaujolais (both grapes are GamayxReichensteiner) but more of a cru quality, the flavours reminded me of Morgan, but with not quite the depth and grip. Good.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

All these wine can be sourced from Alpine Wines and elsewhere…

Thank you to Brigitte and everyone present for an interesting and convivial evening.

À Bientôt

“We’re only in it for the money…”

Over the last 3 or 4 weeks – for a variety of reasons – I’ve spent a bit of time thinking about wine and value. In general, all other things being equal (they never are), if you pay more for a wine it’ll probably be better than a similar style wine that costs significantly less. This rule-of-thumb, I’ve always believed, applies more directly to whites than reds, and the extra price might not always be justified by a smaller jump in quality. However there are even more complications…

I was reminded of one complication when, due to lack of planning, I had occasion to buy a cheapish, supermarket, white wine to start a risotto. I alighted on a Languedoc Viognier with an unusually low alcohol content and price. After using some in the risotto we sampled it and found a light, quite simple, refreshing wine with a nice acidity and balanced hints of apricot. Often I find Viognier has a tendency to be flabby, with too much apricot and oiliness, especially warm climate versions. At this level of wines from this grape paying more seems to get you more: more oiliness; more alcohol; more apricot; more flabbiness. In such a situation I’m inclined to pay less and get a leaner wine. Unless you want to go up to Condrieu and get more complexity, balance, length… that seems to work out for me.

The next week I was tasting with Brigitte Bordeaux while she tasted for the Wine Trader top 100. Tasters for this list are from Independent Wine shops themselves so, although this is a blind tasting, after evaluating the wine the taster is asked to consider the RRP against their notes and score and decide if they would stock the wine in question. This involves a judgement of value against quality in offering the wine for sale. We had another grape where often paying more often just gives you more, bigger wine, rather than better balanced wine – Gewürztraminer.

I rarely drink Gewürz unless eating Thai food, or something similar – aromatic, medium spiced dishes. So when I last bought Gewürz I looked at quite a big Alsace co-op where they list their wines giving exact alcohol and residual sugar levels (as is quite common in German lists, but rarer in Alsace). Now residual sugar and alcohol often pull in opposite directions – for a given wine the longer you ferment the alcohol goes up and the sugar down. So a lighter wine will have the lowest total levels of these two, in this co-op’s case the lowest in both measures of 4 candidates was the same wine – so I bought it (about 10 € in France + delivery) – and it does its job very well. For interest it had abv of 13.0 % (the others 13.3 – 13.5) and sugar also 13 (g/l) so not really dry, but others were up to 24!

I was reminded of this wine too when tasting Alsace with Brigitte – and found a GC Alsace Gewürz (Kirchberg de Barr) which had a supple acidity to counter its tropical fruit. It was 14.5% abv, but had therefore left little sugar unfermented. It did have a range of fruit rather than a single intense note and an interesting grapefruit-tinged acidity… £25-ish though.

At least formally, all this reached a dramatic climax with the W1NG group’s April tasting led by BB, featuring 3 blind pairs of quite disparate costs in a “Cheap v Expensive” comparison (or “posh v plonk”) tasting. Average full costs were £13 versus £33 per pair.

First up was a French Chardonnay pair:
POUILLY FUISSE 2020 VV (Deux Roches) £31 v ICARE CHARDONNAY 2021 (Languedoc) £13
One had oak notes and a linear fruit acid thread, restrained but persistent and slightly closed, attenuated by a mineral hint that suggested waiting. The other was open, richer but simpler with nutty hints. It was quite hard to score these – as the main charms of the first wine (which turned out to be the more expensive) seemed to be waiting for time and food, whereas the simpler attractions of the second wine were there right now. The expensive wine clearly a better wine, and suggested pleasure to come but was it worth the extra in the glass right then? No – but would it be ever be worth that much extra?? Good question – I couldn’t help thinking one might find a more pleasing all round wine somewhere in the middle.

Next came two Left Bank clarets:
CHATEAU FORCAS-DUPRE 2013 (Listrac) £16 v CHATEAU LA GARDE 2013 (Pessac-Leognan) £33
These are both more-or-less equal Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and both about 13% abv. Both were rather hard, with tannin the killjoy in one and astringent acidity the other. The fruit was subjugated in both behind a dry – in one case saline – grip. Some fruit in both but not much expression. One wine was a little longer and the saline tannin grip betrayed the PL as opposed to the Listrac which was overwhelmed with acidity. I didn’t like either much, I think I prefer – if prefer is the word – too much acidity to too much tannin. Is lack of impression because 2013 was a rather difficult year? Perhaps… but one would expect more differences at these two price points.

Finally Rioja – in fact two 100% Tempranillo
RIOJA RESERVA VINA ALARDE 2016 £10 v RIJOA RESERVA TAHON DE TOBELAS 2015 £33
This comparison was was clear as the wines were very different: oak, depth and clarity on one hand; freshness, simple fruit and dash on the other. It’s obvious which was the more expensive wine but right then in the glass I can’t say I preferred it, and if that’s the case wouldn’t one rather pay £10 rather than £30+ ??? This brings me back to my remarks at the beginning – if one is paying more for Rioja one doesn’t just want more extraction, more oak, more alcohol! But I feel a little like I did with the first pair, sure I could find something offering the best of both worlds for somewhere in the, rather wide, middle ground.

So – quite an illuminating tasting – with a moral that one needs to taste – or trust the taste of someone (critic or supplier) – the wine in question before venturing anything above your ordinary outlay. Thanks to BB and to everyone there for the evening.

Finally as a Coda: BB and I met again to taste 10 (or was it 11) Rosés at the end of the Top 100 tasting. This was amazingly varied and we found some nice wines at all price points. However a real star (at £20ish) – I think for both of us – was a Romanian wine made from a grape called Busuioaca de Averesti.

This was lovely: with a passion fruit and grapey nose and a refreshing acidity with grapefruit tinges and a slightly sweet red fruit palate with a vinous food-friendly grip. A perfect summer Rosé that would cope with tapas or spicy nibbles. I would probably score it as a good 17 (/20) in this blog’s usual scoring system… I hope BB will stock it this summer?!

That’s it for now – indeed probably for 3 or 4 weeks – until then…

LOIRE CABERNET FRANC – TASTING REPORT

On 2^nd February 2023 the Wine in Nottingham Group met for the first tasting of the 2023 season. The first “normal” tasting since March 2020 – nearly 3 years. A few members have left, a few old members returned and a couple more likely to return sometime soon. So – the group is now 28 strong (plus myself or Kathryn from Brigitte Bordeaux – or both of us) so the maximum of 30 is much the same.

The first tasting of the season was Loire Cabernet Franc – with the wines all 100% Cabernet Franc and sourced across the Central area of the Loire: Eastern Anjou and Western Touraine. The wines come from an area not much more than 20 miles across, although predominantly Cabernet Franc vineyards extend another 20 miles or so both South West and South East.

Here are my notes:

CRÉMANT ROSÉ “ÉTINCELLES” nv (Ansodelles)   –   14 %   –   Grower €15  (UK £27)
“Étincelles” is a Pétillant Naturel (Pet Nat) wine made in a single fermentation ending in the bottle, and no dosage with sugar and yeast for a second fermentation. This method (also called méthode ancestral) produces less bubbly, fresher, fruitier and more grape-specific flavours. In this case the herby acidity with raspberry and strawberry fruit common in Cabernet Franc. The mousse is light and the wine shows a citric acidity, although more in the middle palate than in the more usual attack as with Champagnes and other Crémants. As is common in the Loire, serving this with dessert would work well – but a very nice aperitif too.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY “CHARL’ANNE” 2015 (La Cune)   –   13.5 %   –   Grower €14  (UK £25)
Rather typical Franc nose, light spice, some herbal notes and red fruit. Palate follows evenly with a mineral, pencil-lead note emerging and then developing to earthiness at the finish. Well balanced with an even structure and lightness that speaks of Saumur-Champigny. Rather a good representative of the appellation!
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

CHINON CLOS DE LA LYSARDIÈRE Vieilles Vignes 2017   –   13 %   –   Grower €14 (UK £24)
This is a similar colour with, at first, a more restricted nose and mineral, more chewy attack. With time the wine softens and opens certainly revealing green capsicum and leafy notes but a bigger darker fruit and some length. Very comparable to the previous wine in quality: a slightly deeper palate and a slightly more uneven structure, and clearly a little younger…
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

SAINT-NICOLAS-DE-BOURGUEIL “DIONYSOS” 2018 (Mortier)   –   13.5 %   –   Grower €15 (UK £25)
This has a nose of ripe black and red currants, with a sweeter palate, and the acidity delayed to the mid-palate. This has a quite big-boned quality with a black pastille sweetness, and early earthiness. It lacks the length, structure and finesse of the other wines but against that has depth and a more international profile.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

BOURGUEIL “LES MARQUISES” 2015 (Audebert)   –   13.5 %   –   Grower €16 – (UK £25)
This and the next wine are both from over 40 year old vines in two vineyards less than a kilometer apart on the same coteaux in Benais. They are cultivated and vinified identically by the same man – so differences are likely attributable to the terroir. This is higher (20m or so), more exposed to the West and with deeper and more clay-based topsoil. This has a Franc nose with supple red fruits, even a cherry hint. Hints of spice, herb and warmth on the supple tannins and an integrated acidity. Overall – a rather complete wine, pretty well at peak.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ^16.5/₂₀

BOURGUEIL “LE CLOS SENECHAL” 2015 (Audebert)   –   13.5 %   –   Grower €16 – (UK £25)
This has a more sheltered, southerly aspect and a soil with more limestone. The flavour components are similar to the previous wine, but all more recessed and enveloped in a more defined structure, cleaner and harder. There is more acidity and tannin but then below that – some satisfying depth and fruit and slightly more complexity. It seems “cooler” and in need of a couple of years, then it may be better than all the others…
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

So, do the wines show the rarified distinctions between the main appellations? These wines are all from 40-55 year old vines, grown on Agrilo-Calcaire soils, with some variations in the topsoil (in relation to depth, and to other components in the clay). I think it fair to say that the differences are less than that of any of them to a wine made from vines on sand nearer the Loire itself. That will be open, dashing and raspberry fruited for immediate quaffing with Bistro food. These are all a bit more serious – yet they do – in my opinion – display subtle differences that speak of their origin.

In general the Saumur-Champigny showed a pleasing lightness; after a while the Chinon showed supple depth. The Saint-Nicolas was rustic and surprisingly big; while the Bourgueils showed more structure and in different ways, I think, more complexity.

Overall I thought quality and typicity were very good. In food-suitability and profile the easiest comparison for these sort of wines would be to a right bank Claret, an area of similar stylistic range. I think these wines would, at least, hold their own against a selection of those costing 50% more. Now, if only we knew someone who lived in the Cabernet Franc wine area…

Jusqu’à la prochaine fois

A Halloween Burgundy Tasting – not so scary!

The W1NG Group met at the ICC on Halloween, for a tasting of Burgundy that turned out to be more treat than trick.

Admittedly the average bottle cost was about £26, even allowing for some “tricks” for getting discounts which probably means that most buyers would find the average nearer £30 now. Nevertheless is did show – all in all – that at this level Burgundy can be something special. We’ll discuss what that is later, first – here are my tasting notes:

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2016 (Coche-Bizouard, Meursault) –  14 %   –  Wine Soc  £23
This had a stone fruit nose with citric notes, the palate showed this as long lemon acidity, some restrained fruit and a long mineral line. Quite rich but with an unmistakably Burgundian counterbalancing grip. Very satisfactory and good value when compare against our specific white Burgundy Benchmark set at £30.
SCORE: 16 VALUE 16.5

POUILLY-FUISSÉ “PENTACRINE” 2015 (Saumaize-Michelin)  –  13.5 %   –  SVS £27.50
This is much richer, with (too much) creamy texture – and a much warmer citric acidity, more mandarin than lemon. Pliant and a bit loose. It’s only the slightly restrained fruit and some mineral backbone (much less pronounced than the previous wine), that suggest a Burgundy origin rather than a cooler New World wine. Many liked this wine, and against a couple of £25 New World Chardonnay it would do well, but not for me in this company:
SCORE: 15 VALUE 15

CHABLIS 1^er Cru “MONTMAINS” 2016 (Simonnet-Febvre)  –  13 %  –  Waitrose £28
This has a lighter and cooler nose, but open with hints of yellow fruit. The nose is reflected by the first palate, which also yields a stronger acid line persisting right through the middle palate. Lovely balance, length and refreshment with hints of subtle fruit and a mineral base weaving a complex pattern. This grower makes 5 Premier Cru Chablis, priced from €22 at the cellar door. This one was my favourite white of the night:
SCORE: 16.5 VALUE 16.5

ST. AUBIN 1^er Cru “SUR LE SENTIER DU CLOU” 2014 (Clair)  –  13 %  –  SVS £24 (for the’18)
This has some components that say “Burgundy”, a lightish vegetal nose, some pretty fruit and a light, but present, structure. However the components lack depth and development, and it’s all over a bit quickly. We are working against a £40 benchmark now, so:
SCORE: 14 VALUE 15

GIVRY PREMIER CRU CLOS SALOMON 2019 (Clos Salomon)  –  13.5 %  –  Wine Soc £29
This has ample and sweet red fruit, on the nose and palate. Rather pretty and open, but lacking much depth despite some more vinous components. Rather new world in style – only a vague herbal note mitigates against an open and angular style. Quite a nice wine, but not impressively Burgundian:
SCORE: 15 VALUE 15.5

MONTHÉLIE PREMIER CRU CHAMPS FUILLOT 2019 (Changarnier)  –  13.5 %  –  Wine Soc £35
Very farmyard nose, with animal and vegetal notes, later a hint of heavy (violet? lily?) fragrance underneath it all. A complex wine with some sweet fruit (dark cherry?) soft but still slightly grainy, almost chocolate, tannins; mineral and a warm acidity. The wine has development in the glass (and undoubtedly in the cellar), and is unmistakably, satisfyingly Burgundy! The favourite red of the group by a clear margin and my favourite wine of the whole night too. In fact this is, I think, only the 3rd sort of Monthélie I’ve drunk, (I’ve twice bought cases of 6 in the past) and they have never disappointed. The grower only makes 1,500 bottles of this wine a year – an indication of the small volumes available for wines at this level!
SCORE: 17 VALUE 17

So – is it necessary and worth it to go up to, or at least towards £30 or £40 to get the real Burgundy? For me, on the basis of this tasting I would certainly say yes. Although the first white undoubtedly offers a value option, and evidence that bargains can be found. However, sometimes the best value is not just the cheapest, and the most expensive wines were worth the extra IMO!

What is that elusive Burgundian character, that’s worth paying for? For me, it’s a level of complexity and balance that combines a notable fruit with structure and other flavours without becoming overpowering or one-sided. Finesse, in a word. I think the most expensive wines – both white and red – showed that a bit better than the cheaper wines in this tasting. It might not be enough to warrant the price increase in everyone’s mind (and wallet) – but it does in mine.

Happy tasting…

À Bientôt

THE WINE-IN-NOTTINGHAM-GROUP MEETS AGAIN

On 9th June 2022 the Wine in Nottingham Group met for the first time since early March 2020 – 27 months. Of 33 people in the group at that time, only two have withdrawn, while a couple are not ready to return quite yet. A further 5 were away but sent apologies. So, 24 us gathered to catch up and sample so special wines.

The highlight of evening was undoubtedly seeing old friends – only about a third of whom I’d seen in person in that long dark social-winter. Nevertheless the wine opportunity was also something special. Just before Covid I had planned to commemorate the 20th Birthday of the Wine Group (April 2000!) with a selection of high scoring wines.

My blog started in July 2013 and the current scoring system was initiated at that point. In the 7 years between then and the Covid stop I have only awarded 7 wines more than 17 points (out of 20) – about one a year. So I decided to show those wines, sometimes in more recent vintages, and sourced them in 2020. So we decided to go ahead with those wines.

It wasn’t the most analytical of tastings, the social excitement, a compressed timescale and 7 wines meant we had only 15 minutes with each wine compared to the normal 20. So I’ve decided to quote my original notes and scores and make relative comments:

HENRIQUES AND HENRIQUES 10 YEAR OLD SERCIAL, Madeira DOC – 20 % – Wine Society – £20 (½l)
In February 2017 I wrote: “Just Lovely! Notes of citrus, flowers, blossom, over-ripe peach… Palate has a smoky Madeira base, but dried fruit sweet hints undercut and lengthened by a dashing supple acidity that goes on and on, a wonderful aperitif as it gets the juices flowing: evocative, dashing, sensual and sensational! I think this is my preferred version of Madeira as it’s so versatile and unusual…  Score 18”
This time we tried 2020-sourced 10-y-o, so the wine is essentially the same in relation to the tasting. Indeed there is not a word I need to alter – nor the score!

GRAND CRU KAEFFERKOPF 2002  (Schaetzel) (Alsace, France) 13%  £16 from the grower – rare now.
In July 2014 I wrote: “Golden colour. Diesel / polish nose, with honey, citrus and a hint of stone fruit on the nose. Palate is dry with a sour stone fruit character. Very long and mouth watering. The fruit grows slowly through the tasting. Lovely!… Score 18”
Now there is more diesel, more mineral and less fruit, much more austere but as complex though through multifaceted mineral rather than fruit , still just as good? Maybe a little past its pleasure peak – half a point off?

BARBARESCO “ELISA” 2008 (ADA NADA)   –   14 %   –   Grower £26 (UK £40)
In February 2016 I wrote: “This nose is quite open for Nebbiolo – pungent even: meat, lilies, liquorice, plums. The palate has cherry and plum fruit but a definite tarry body and a slightly bitter-chocolate finish. Very expressive and warmer and more evolved than similar wines. Probably near its best. Score 17.5”

Now this is more liquorice, darker pruney fruit, rounder smoother but loosing a little dashing freshness. Perhaps a little less interesting, but showing more power and would be for a deeper flavoured food selection, I probably would not alter the score…

CHÂTEAU PRADEAUX BANDOL 2006 – 13½%  – (Leon Stolarski £23 – but now France Retail £24)
In February 2015 I wrote: “At first the nose is pungent with farmyard smell, then more damp forest and then higher notes of baking spice, floral hints and even marmalade (?). The nose is so eventful and complex one delays actually tasting the wine. The palate has dry tannins with a lifting acidity and a current of blackberry fruit and a kirsch tinge. Again developing and satisfying, a wine one could spend time with – lovely! Score 18.
This time we were tasting the 2013, so a wine tasted at 9 years old as before. But this seemed quite a lot younger, much recessed nose a similar but lighter nose. It changed in the glass and opened a bit towards the 2006 profile. A much less impressive vintage (Bandol 2013 is ** in general while 2006 was ***), and definitely a point lower – but an impressive wine nonetheless..

CHÂTEAU MUSAR (HOCHAR, BEKAA VALLEY) 2010   –   13½ %  (Now £34)
In February 2019 I wrote: “This was a very hot dry year and Musar lost about half of its Cabernet to drying out. So the mix is about equally Cinsault, Carignan and Cabernet with – especially the last – contributing dried berries. The result is amazing with hints of oily Amarone-style bitter cherry, some prune and some savoury notes in a sprity package. The palate is balanced by lovely supple acidity with some Italianate leather hints, very ripe plum fruit and some spice. One would probably guess at a, very good, Amarone – but this has a slightly wild complexity. Just fabulous and worth the money IMO…. I wish I’d bought more Score 18.”
This is very similar – if anything a little darker, rounder and with more sweetness to the fore, in the form of a blackcurrant pastille hint. Making it even warmer and more pleasurable and maybe a half point higher. Also the crowd favourite with about 41% of the vote (that’s a familiar figure…).

KRÖVER KIRCHLAY AUSLESE EDELSÜß 2010 (Müllen) Traben-Trabach, Mosel 7%   Grower  £19
In November 2015 I wrote: “Beginning of diesel hints, soft fruit and slatey mineral on the nose. Palate has dazzling warm precise acidity – with notes of orange, other citrus peel and peach, with lip-smacking food-demanding acidity. Lots of sweetness (maybe over 100g/l) but what supple but focused acidity, combining delicacy and power. Just Wunderbar… Score 18.5 .”
Another wine where the notes could be repeated exactly – there is a little more diesel, a little more mineral, a little more peach and – to my palate – a perfect old-style German Riesling. It could attract a little more in the score too, but it’s already a very high score – still my favourite…”

GEWÜRZTRAMINER VENDANGE TARDIVE 2014 (Turckheim)   –   13½%   Virgin Wines £30
In July 2018 I wrote: “This has big obvious Gewürz perfumes: tropical fruit; rose; ginger – with a baking-biscuits note and honey. The palate is enormously rich and that gives an impression of greater sweetness than it’s 50-60 g/l of residual sugar, maybe half that of a full dessert wine. Luscious, honey mango, passion fruit palate that goes on forever – just wanted some blue cheese or a passion fruit Crème Brûlée. A lovely thought to end this season’s ICC Tastings… Score 17.5.”
This was shown in the 2017 vintage so slightly older at the point of tasting, but seemed sweeter than the notes above and although impressive it is a little less fresh and interesting as a result. 2017 was a bigger vintage in general in Alsace and sometimes that works to the detriment of all but the most carefully made sweet wines. Half a point lower maybe, which would drop it out of qualification for the very tasting it concludes.

A suitable paradox to end the delayed conclusion to the 2020 season.

I’d like to thank those attending for the honour of their evening, and my readers for the honour of their attention.

Stay safe – À bientot

A ZOOM CHIANTI TASTING

On Friday 10th July, Kim and I were joined by Jenny and Carrie, to taste some Chianti  Actually there were only two wines as Carrie had the same bottle as Kim and I. I think Helen & Brenda also have an identical bottle and may add a note later.

The wines were:

Villa Cambi Chianti Superiore 2014 (Castel di Pugna)
Lornano Chianti Classico 2015

The Superiore was sourced by CorkMaster from the (now sadly defunct) direct-importing-club 3D Wines. It is from close to Sienna and is composed of Sangiovese 90%, Colorino 5% and other old traditional red varieties. It is 13% abv.
Kim and I found a pruney nose, with  fruit cake notes emerging and a supple but noticable sour cherry note. A very typical set of Chianti aromas.  The palate has a vinous undertow a full and rich pruney and dried fruit middle and a long acid line adding refreshment, and some spice (baking spice) brought out with the food. Carrie found similar flavours with some dried fruit and herbal (dill?) notes on the palate too. Later in a bigger glass we all found more non-fruit flavours: liquorice, leather, farmyard and the acid and fruit lines more merged giving a slightly lighter fresher fruit – more like damson. A beautifully balanced wine drinking well now, and just when you think the finish is going a bit soft (a possibility with some Chianti…) a tannic but supple postscript creeps in. Very good!

The Classico is pure Sangiovese from the Castellina area, aged in French oak and coming in a 14.5% abv. A little cool at first leading to a recessed nose but a warming spirity note. Damson notes and a sharp outline of more concentrated redcurrant fruit. Quite big with tannin and a sharp finish. Later more open with warmer fruit and a leather note, giving a savoury impression and working with savoury food. Even later much more integrated and balanced and working well with Parmesan. Still quite a sharp finish but richer and rounder. Probably a little young for a big year with high acidity. In Chianti, as elsewhere some later vintages seem more ready.

A very interesting tasting showing how satisfying Sangiovese can be – but how styles, areas and vintages can differ.

Not sure when the next post will be – or on what subject. At least a week away I think….

Until then

Stay Safe and Cheers!

RIESLINGS TO BE CHEERFUL

On Friday 26th June, Kim and I were joined by Jenny, Carrie, Ann & John and Helen & Brenda to taste five Riesling wines.  Actually there were four wines as two bottles were the same. Carrie had arranged with Helen & Brenda to acquire and open identical bottles.

Rheingau

Marlborough

Alsace

Nahe (x2)

The four wines were:

Hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling Spätlese 2015 (von Simmern, Rheingau)
Hunter’s Riesling 2017 (Marlborough)
Riesling Hugel “Jubilee” 2007 (Alsace)
Riesling Queen of Whites (Weingut Tesch, Nahe)

Kim and I found lightish diesel hints with aromas of lime, honey, floral elements – maybe elderflower and passion fruit in this 11% abv, Rhiengau example. With similar flavours on the palate but disappointingly unintegrated – a slightly crystalline sweet attack (candied peel and then soft peach) followed by – and rather separate from – a sharp, spritzy but warm acidity with a hint of spice….There was a better balance with time, and for being slightly colder, and finally a bigger glass (see below). But initially only warranted a 14 or 15 out of 20.

The Marlborough was crisp and dry at 12.5%, showing lime and grapefruit acidity with some peachy fruit  and tropical fruits surfacing later. A zesty wine with other fruit hints later (apple? tropical fruits?) but dominant lime flavours… Jenny gave this 15.

The Alsace was bone dry – even slightly austere with diesel notes and a strong acidity. The acidity seemed to move towards the lime with time and had complexity with softer fruit  underneath the line of steely acidity. Some richer components later and this mature wine got 17 / 20 from John.

The Nahe Wine is made only about 10 miles SW of the Rheingau wine as the crow flies (although it’s nearly 3 times as far by car – to drive one must go miles East to Wiesbaden to cross the Rhein). Rheingau soils are deep, chalky, loess  while Nahe has more varied soil with volcanic and slate elements too. Helen & Brenda found the wine fully dry, showed good acidity,  lime flavours and a strong finish. Carrie sensed an acacia element and a honey note on he nose but palate leading with lime too. Later the wine seemed to develop more richness, an oily hint and some diesel… Everyone reported the lime retreating a little giving a more grapefruit touch. Also everyone gave the wine a 15 – but felt it might improve with a few years…

 

For the second half of the tasting Kim and I  put the Rheingau in a more traditional glass. As one might imagine the nose became lighter and subtler but the sweetness and acidity gained in integration – rather surprisingly. Now the sweet attack with a limey finish was replaced by a line of softer citrus acidity – mandarin came to my mind –  without lessening the floral or soft fruit complexity, lip-smackingly good, and in my opinion raising its score from 14 to 16!

 

So a rather late post – as the weather here is cooler but dry and I am able to work in the garden every day. So the next post will also be on wine – specifically a Zoom Chianti tasting. So it’ll be another 2 weeks before a post on current UK Government “performance”! I’m sure you can wait.

À Bientôt

A ROSÉ ZOOM TASTING – VINEYARD PROGRESS IN BENAIS

On Friday 12th June, Kim and I were joined by Jenny, Carrie and Helen & Brenda to taste four Rosé: wines. We had thought of this a couple of weeks earlier when the weather had been rather warm and the thought of sipping Rosé on a summer’s evening had seemed appealing. As it turned out the evening was dull, rather cool  and with some rain, but we enjoyed the wines nonetheless.

We had two Cabernet Franc wines from Bourgueil,  two vintages of the same wine as it turned out; another Loire from Sancerre – made, of course, from Pinot Noir; and a Alentejo Rosé from the Douro Port grape Touriga Nacional. We were joined for a chat towards the end by Ann & John who were drinking and 2015 Pouilly-Fuissé (Chablis-like acidity but a more Mâcon richness).

Here are my notes on the Rosé:

The wines were:

Sancerre Rosé 2018 (Riffault)
Pato Frio Cashmere Rosé 2018 (Ribafreixo, Alentejo)
Bourgueil Rosé “Marie Dupin” 2017 (Cave de Bourgueil)
Bourgueil Rosé “Marie Dupin” 2018 (Cave de Bourgueil)

There are 3 ways of making Rosé: blending (not encouraged in most major wine regions and illegal in France – except Champagne); saignée (bleeding off some of the light juice at an early stage of making red, to make the final red darker); and through short (-ish) skin contact with red grapes. All these wines are made with the last method.

One of the most interesting aspects of this sort of wine is colour. The depth would be affected by the length of time of skin contact, but the tone – from onion-skin through salmon to bright pink – depends too on the grape conditions in the year of vintage. Look – for example – at the differences between the 2017 and 2018 Bourgueils. The 2018 is clearly paler and  more onion skin, despite being a warmer – and more recent – year.  Although not apparent from the photo, the Sancerre was in between, clearly pink but lighter than the 2017 Bourgueil, and with a hint of  orange. The Alentejo was lighter than all the rest and definitely onion-skin. This is more-or-less the inverse of the normal colours of the reds – red Sancerre is lighter than Bourgueil, and Touriga very dark….

The Sancerre had a very fragrant nose – definite raspberry character with some citrus and even passion-fruit hints, later a vesper of a herby note. The palate has strong but integrated acidity, a sourish note (maybe cherry I thought but more strawberry for Kim) and a hint of tannin and chalky texture and a surprisingly warm finish. This was an amazingly high 14% alcohol. It coped with a fish dish well, appearing sweeter and more strawberry then –  and had an overall structure very like a (light) red wine – which it sort-of is! Later in a bigger glass the elements all flowed together better, making an interesting-retaining wine with good vinous quality. However this did expose the flaw, which was it’s too high acidity. We didn’t score at the time – but on reflection that reduced it to 16.5/20 for us.

The Alentejo also had a floral nose with a rose-petal character  and a grapefruit note. The palate is dry, sharp at first but settling with a rounder grapefruit and gooseberry acidity. Fresh, red fruit but a little too sharp and lacking full integration in a bigger glass.

The two Bourgueil have many similarities – lightness, freshness, red fruit and good acidity and a minerality of some sort. However the differences in the two vintages which show with the 2018 being lighter in colour and in alcohol (2017 is 12% ; 2018 is 11.5%)  are the opposite to what one might expect with 2018 being a warmer and fuller year, This must point to shorter maceration in 2018,, perhaps to preserve the lightness of the wine. At any event Carrie reported a blossom note on the nose and slightly bigger flavoured – redcurrant – fruit along with a flinty mineral character on the 2017. Jenny reported lighter floral character, white fruit as well as citrus and strawberry and the minerality expressed as a slightly bitter note. on the 2018. It seemed impossible to draw any preference between these two similar but different wines.

These wines might all well work better as food wines, which – in spite of their frivolous reputation – is the best purpose of summer Rosé. If one wants a chillable wine for summer food, but with some structure and even hints of tannin, then that’s one way to turn. One can certainly see their charm in their homeland.

Just as a postcript, we were moved to open a white Sancerre with a roast pork dish over the weekend. Bought in Chavignol on the same trip we acquired the Rosé :Sancerre 2017 “Cuvée des M.a.g.e.s.” is Serge Laporte‘s best Cuvée. The name comprises the initials of Serge’s family and is from grapes grown on  Kimmeridgian marl and aged slowly for 18 months.

A wonderfully complex nose with all sorts of citrus notes – gooseberry certainly but not overwhelmingly and also hints of mandarin and redcurrant. The palate is wonderfully persistent supple and the long line of acidity is soft and pliant, it has some flavours of a NZ Sauvignon but much subtler and better balanced within a more elegant Sancerre style. It framed the pork dish, with an apple and wine gravy (not apple sauce) perfectly.

Certainly a 17/20 wine and one of the best Sauvignons I can remember for 5 years or so.

​In two weeks: a Riesling tasting…

————————————

Vine progress on Grand Mont.

The next day we took a stroll through the Grand Mont (Bourgueil) vineyard in Benais, and this time again I had my camera. So I stopped to look at the vine development half way up the hill where 3 separate parcels all meet within a few metres of the path. You will remember that they all had different ways of working the ground between vines and had markedly different pruning and tying in approaches. I took the usual 3 photographs, which are slightly larger this time.

The first parcel (to the left – N – of the path) had has the most usual pruning. The leaf growth, with recent wet weather had been substantial and the foliage was nearly as high now as the plot opposite where the spurs had been trained upwards. As you can see many, rather open. bunches of grapes had formed near the bottom of the vines.

The still slightly higher and  more leafy vines opposite had fuller but fewer bunches. These difference were quite small though and the general impressions of both parcels was similar.

However the parcel below which had the “aisles” between the vines left growing “wild” was markedly different. It seems that some organic growers prefer this to encourage roots to grow straight down and feed  lower in the soil. As usual foliage development here was well behind, perhaps half that of the other two parcels. Also the grape formation was in more, but smaller tighter bunches, that are carried a little higher in the canopy. That may well be that the canopy itself was lower: the vines having been trained down to a wire below the spur in a curve. This parcel alone looked to have a more normal grapes to canopy ration. The others seeming to have a lot of unnecessary vertical shoots protruding above the wire supports. Indeed further up the hill some parcels had had these vertical shoots trimmed off by one of those machines that straddle the vine. At the moment that seems to be a minority of the parcels on Grand Mont.

How this all develops to further pruning, green harvest and grape harvest and then the eventual wines in a year or more – we will see…..

In a week another political pandemic post. More wine in 2 weeks.

À Bientôt

CABERNET FRANC ZOOM TASTING

Brenda, Carrie, Helen, Jenny, Kim and I met again last Friday for our latest Zoom tasting of various examples of Cabernet Franc., and a discussion of the grape and a catch up. All present had been in the Loire in the last year or two; and three of the four examples tasted had been purchased from the grower.

We had a Bourgueil, two Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil and a Saumur Champigny – all of recent vintages – maybe some a little too recent for peak readiness…  Here are my notes of the encounter…

The wines were

Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil “Cuvée Lorieux-Amirault” 2015 (Domaine de Chevrette)
Bourgueil 2018 (Domaine de Matabrune)
Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil “Kexako” 2017 (Sébastien David)
Saumur-Champigny “Tradition” 2015 (Domaine de la Cune)

Domaine de Chevrette is right on the border between Bourgueil and St-Nicolas. The winery is in Bourgueil but if you leave the winery, turn right out of the gate and cross the road you are in St. Nicolas. Most of their Cuvées are Bourgueil but in good years the make a superior St. Nicolas which bears the name of their own family and Amirault, an old and prestigous Bourgueil family to which they are connected by marriage. This has warm fruit of blackberries and strawberries and quite a low (12.5%) alcohol. Sharp at first the palate reflects a more strawberry tart/sweet balance. Later the fruit becomes a bit darker and the acidity better integrated giving a rounder more pleasurable package. There is some of the green-ness of Cabernet Franc but not sticking above the general acidity common in 2015. Perhaps a little young, but having been opened for over an hour Jenny gave the wine 17/20.

The Matabrune is a single village product of the Cave Co-operative. The sites are in Restignié with 70% Clay over limestone and 30% sand and gravel soils. This has quite a “modern” treatment in the winery: completely destemmed and fermented at 80°F in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats;  and then pumped over and the cap punched down daily to give high extraction. During it’s élevage there is some micro-oxygenation. All of which contibuted to its 14.5% alcohol (high for Cab. Franc).The initial nose has strawberries, raspberries and pepper. Quite sharp and grippy on the palate softening with time in the glass. Some chalky notes and some chocolate with a herby green, fennel even, expression of Franc. This is a softer style with both grippy tannins and high alcohol sticking out a bit. Not yet integrated and scored at 14/20 for drinking now by Brenda and Helen.

The Kezako (it means “what is it?” in Languedoc) is one of several very individual wines made by Sébastien David in a site he can trace in his family to 1634. The Estate is Ecocert and Biodynamic, with flint and limestone soil with some gravel areas. The land between vines is allowed to grow wild encouraging the vine roots to descend straight down – which they do for 6 metres!  Sébastien believes, as do I, that Cabernet Franc works well when raised in Cement vessels,, and he makes Cuvées in tank, egg and amphora – all made in concrete! This is the “egg” cuvée – but it starts life in 27 old oak barrels into which whole bunches of grapes are stuffed. The barrels are sealed and left on their sides for 50 days of semi carbonic maceration with the ambient yeasts. The barrels are rolled a little every day to keep different bunches in the juice as it is produced. Each barrel only produces 20 litres or so of juice in that time. Then the whole lot is pressed and juice goes into a 677 litre concrete egg to finish fermentation and age for 6 to 18 months.. The egg requires no intervention as the shape gives constant circulation including the repeated catching of solid particles on the rough inside of the concrete and these being gradually reduced in size and incorporated in the wine. The whole system gives richer smoother wine without lees stirring or racking. The resulting 13.6% alcohol wine seems young with purple color and plum, rhubarb and raspberry brandy hints. The palate has sweet and sharp cherry and blackberry fruit but for such a young wine the tannins are remarkably smooth and integrated. There is some aromatic spice and a hint of capsicum and sweeter dark cherry fruit later in a bigger glass where the supple but earthy tannins seem later in the mouth. Lovely, well-developed and complex. Kim gave it 17.5 and I 17/20.

The La Cune is from South of Saumur in the village of Chaintre. Chalky and limestone soil, and a blend of wines from different terroirs produce this classic Franc of 13% alcohol. Violet and red fruit on the nose, again a sharpness to the raspberry fruit on the palate speaks of the vintage. Seems a little narrow at first but broadens in a bigger glass with typical green pepper and graphite hints, with sloe or damson tart fruit. The high acidity integrated with time in the glass helped by a larger glass giving more pleasure depth and a spirity notes. Carrie gave this 15/20 but though another year would have helped the pleasure and the score.

So some very obvious general conclusions:

• Despite its more rustic overall (deserved) reputation good, well chosen Saint-Nicolas can rival other Cabernet Franc appellations;
• Although a good year there are high acids in the 2015s that are taking their time to integrate, it seems that the 2016s and possibly the 2017s will be ready first.
• 2018 has good indications from a harvesting and wine making point of view (I know at least two growers who are planning on bottling their top 2018 Cuvées from 6 to 12 months earlier than most years), however it was very hot very early and may not need high extraction and anything that brings the wines even more forward.
• Although they express it in different ways, all the wines do have a green/herby/stalky/peppery/earthy note, which when in balance, lifts and broadens the wines. It is much more successful, IMO, than other Bordeaux grapes when vinified as a varietal and has an affinity to concrete that I would love to see explored more…

So… more wines in a couple of weeks following a Rosé Zoom tasting on Friday 12th.

There may be a Pandemic Politcs post in between – you have been warned!

In the meantime – Stay Well

À Bientôt

TOP OF THE WINE TREE

Last Thursday was Ascension. A holiday in France, with which – as a card-carrying heathen – I was previously unacquainted.

To mark the occasion (really, to mark the holiday) Kim ascended a ladder to the branches of our cherry tree that bore some early ripened fruits. Not much but enough for a cherry sauce to go with Magret de Canard for dinner.

With this we opened a bottle of the most expensive wine we had here in Benais (we had already drunk the Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2002): A Clos des Papes Châteauneuf 1998.

This was, I think, the first en primeur wine I ever bought. The offer arriving shortly after having sampled the 1989 at one of Ralph’s classes. I think the wine worked out – after taxes and delivery a year later – about £18 a bottle for a full case of 12, and I decided to keep it for ten years. However when drinking time came I discovered it was worth £600 a case (£860 now, I just checked!), and I hesitated. In fact I was offered £500 for the case which I declined. I would have sold half, but I wanted to taste it, so I left it in the cellar.

I was reminded of the wine a couple of years ago by this note from Matt Walls in Decanter:  “Very much plum in colour, this has aromas of spices, sweet earth and a touch of black cherry amongst the strawberry and plum fruits. It’s silky on the full-bodied palate, with sweet fruit and some gentle balsamic notes. It’s remarkably tannic still for its age, with good acidity, and even at nearly 20 years of age nothing is sticking out or ungainly – it displays impressive balance.(98 points).  So I started broaching the case – for special occasions and gifts.

Here are my thoughts:

Clos des Papes Châteauneuf 1998
This wine was made by Paul Avril from 40 hectares divided into 24 distinct plots. This division enables to control the maturity of the berries during harvest and to mix several grape varieties (65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 5% others) and different terroirs. Low yield (around 20 hl/ha) ensure quality wine on the Burgundian side of the appellation’s styles.
Aromas of plum fruit, plum tomatoes, some cherry and hints of fennel, liquorice and a lily note. The palate is wonderfully supple and still fresh, with tarry and sweet fruit elements offset with a touch of pepper and, yes, balsamic! The tar and elegance had a rather Barolo feel to it, with very classy and savoury tannins persisting through many changes of emphasis. This plum – balsamic – savoury line offset the duck with spicy cherry sauce perfectly… ascension indeed! Châteauneuf is not the most elegant of wines but this is a lovely example.

More wine in 10 days. Watch out for (/avoid/contribute to…) a Pandemic Politics Post in between…

À Bientôt

RIGHT BANK CLARET & CABERNET FRANC FRUIT SET

Hi everyone (I promise this post is only about Wine!)

On Friday – Brenda, Carrie, Helen, Kim and I were joined by Ann, John and Jenny on Zoom for what seems set to be a fortnightly varied wine opening and discussion. The theme this time was Right Bank Claret.

I was great to see everyone and to “share” some claret, although each of us only sampled one of the five bottles open… The bottles all were – at some level – Saint Emilion: 2 Grands Crus; a satellite; 2 Grands Crus Classés. They also varied in age from a 1999, through 2009 and 2013, to two 2015s.

What follows is a sort-of note. Based on others’ observations and general thoughts about St Emilion in particular.

The 5 wines were:
Château Clos Villemaurine St Emilion Grand Cru 2009
Château Du Rocher Cuvée Antonius Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2015
Château Grand Corbin Despagne Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2013
Château Laniote Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé 1999
Château Guibeau Puisseguin-Saint Emilion 2015

The first general thing I noticed in our conversations about these wines was how often terms were repeated concerning the wines – cherry, red fruit, liquorice, grip, food friendly, pleasurable…. It stands to reason that these wines, whatever their exact age and provenance, should have much in common. All are between 60% and 80% Merlot, all have some Cabernet Franc. All use mostly wood barrique aging [the Antonius and the Puisseguin have about 30% (Concrete and stainless steel) or 40% (stainless steel) respectively] – with a proportion of new oak in the 20%-50% range.

However the key differences – as is so often the case with very similar wines vinified in similar ways – might (IMO) be the site and the vintage. Not surprisingly the two Grands Crus Classés are in the best sites, on the predominantly limestone plateau North-West of the town, on the road towards Pomerol: The Laniote only about 3 kms out, the Corbin twice as far, nearly at Pomerol. The Villemaurine is also on the plateau, just at the North-East edge of town. The other two wines are from lesser sites: Puisseguin is about 6 kms North East and Guibeau is at the furthest edge of that – another 4 kms away; Antonius is 6 kms South-East towards Castillon where the soil is sandier and the exposure warmer – both these wines have organic credentials though. So just on those facts one might expect more complexity and age-ability from the limestone based wines, and more acidity and a cooler profile from Puisseguin. a softer and hotter profile from the Antonius. Was that so?

Helen and Brenda reported plummy and woody notes on the Villemaurine  – liquorice, slightly dried fruit elements – raisins? A medium body and herby fennel (!?) notes later.  The wine is 60% Merlot 40% Cabernet Franc. Scored 17.5 by it’s reviewers.

Kim and I started the Antonius with food too and we found cherry and liquorice notes, loads of red fruit and spices with a liquorice tinge. Grip and length with the food but quite linear and more acidity than tannin. Actually the tannins were rather light and compared to many 2015s (too vibrant acidity so far in many cases) so was the acidity. Warm too and 14% alcohol, so a bit one-note. This is 70% Merlot 15% Franc and 15% Sauvignon. I think the Franc is vinified in concrete vats. Its lack of variety and slightly new-world simplicity limited our score to 14.5.

Ann and John reported boot polish (!) liquorice, chocolate and vanilla on the Corbin (75% Merlot 24% Franc 1% Sauvignon). Grip and class though on a difficult year…. (I recently saw a list putting it at the bottom of the 2000s vintages so far. I would have 3 or 4 years below it for St Emilion). They had the wine at 15.5

Carrie also opened the Laniote with food and already identified cherry fruit with herby notes on the nose and plum, liquorice and mushrooms on the palate. Later a cedar note on this 80% Merlot wine (15% Franc & 5% Sauvignon). Carrie loved this wine and gave it 17.5 too.

Jenny identified smooth red fruit – cherry and plum – on the nose. WIth a sharp acidity (I think of this as a early feature of 2015 French reds…), freshness and depth, darker fruit palate of the wine. This is 75% Merlot. 15% Sauvignon & 10% Franc and another 14% alcohol wine. Jenny scored it at 15.

One of the most interesting features is how often (unprompted, as written before we convened) cherry and liquorice were mentioned. One has these flavours in claret, to be sure, but seeing them so prominent is more associated with Italian wines. I think the group all really do like Right Bank Claret, but with Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé pushing £40 for a good year, it’ll remain an occasional treat at that level I think. That said there are many good wines to be had at around the £20 mark in the UK, if you pick with care…

In two weeks – Cabernet Franc…

Talking of which… I walked through the vineyards of Benais again last week, on the same walk as a month ago (reported on April 20th) so I decided to take a look at the development of the vines in the three parcels about half way up Grand Mont.

You will remember the three parcels had different round cover strategies (mown grass alternate rows / ploughed / grassy); and also different different pruning and therefore stages of (bud and leaf development: about average / double average / only just budding). Now all had set tiny bunches of fruit.  The parcel with shorter stems and average leaf coverage had nearly caught up in leaf coverage with the longer stemmed parcel. The fruit set was similar for these two groups with less but slightly fuller bunches on the parcel with less leaf growth. The grassy parcel with very short stems and only sparse leaf development had also very sparse fruit bunches – you can see from the fact  that the magnification of the third image is about double the other two. Now I imagine there are too many bunches on the first two sets of vines, so maybe a green harvest later will equalise the grape yield… meanwhile the third parcel clearly has less intervention…. watch this space.

Grand Mont – N of Path

Grand Mont S above Path

Grand Mont S below Path

Coincidentally, a couple of days later,  we took a walk over to the East side of Benais and walked through Vaumoreau – probably the other most famous Benais lieu-dit. The tiny bunches there seemed a little behind the first two Grand Mont parcels, as large overall but with smaller looser packed berries… especially lower down in the sandier soil. I don’t know yet what this means – if anything – but a fascinating thing to keep tabs on… more in a month or so….

More wine tasting notes in a couple of weeks – keep safe

Bon Courage

 

WHITE BURGUNDY ZOOM TASTING

Hi everyone (I promise this post is only about Wine!)

Brenda, Carrie, Helen, Kim and I were together on zoom last night opening – in our several locations – three bottles of white Burgundy. This is an interesting experience, rather removed from the wine-experience of doing that jointly, all in the same place with ability to make direct personal comparisons. However not really that far removed from the conviviality of a joint tasting, as little is so social or as life-affirming as wine!

What follows is a sort-of note. Based on others’ observations and general thoughts about White Burgundy.

The three wines were:
Saint-Véran “Le Vernay” 2017 (Burrier), from the Mâcon
Givry “Champ Pourot” 2010 (Ragot), from the Côte Chalonnaise;
Pernand-Vergelesses 2006 (Rollin) from the Côte de Beaune.

White Burgundy, of course shows signs of it’s Chardonnay origin, but is usually distinguishable from other examples by purer but more restrained fruit, higher acidity, more restrained (if any) oak and more minerality and complexity. Within that general observation I would add some distinctions between the four main areas: Chablis; Côte de Beaune; Côte Chalonnaise and Mâcon. Chablis is usually leaner and has a steely quality and more pronounced acidity, the Beaune wines are richer and can have a nutty elements, Chalonnaise wines are lighter and have a return to more prominent acidity; Mâcon is richer again but with that coming from open fruit more than the oily or buttery richness of – say – a Mersault. To complicate this some Beaune appellations, and Pernand is one – have a distinctly cooler micro climates and hence higher acidity and slower development.

The Saint-Véran was sourced in the UK for about £16.50; the other two bought in France where cellar-door prices were about €14. UK prices for current vintages (’17 or ’18) are about £23 (Givry) and £26 (PV).

As far as I can see all the wines are produced on limestone-rich soil: Limestone and clay with a little granite for the St V; brown soil from old limestone and clay-limestone for the Givry; shallow clay-limestone lying on white limestone marls (PV). The Givry has 50% old oak in the aging –  the PV is all oak but just 10% new.

First impressions of the Saint-Véran showed a fresh and fruity wine with tropical notes and some mineral, even flinty hints with good but not over-prominent citrus acidity. Later, in a bigger glass the wine opened to show more depth and less tropical elements and more lime acidity. The grower speaks of white fruits (pear, peach), and the white flowers (acacia), but although we mentioned peach in the discussion little of the other flavours. Probably better in a year or two. Helen and Brenda gave the wine 16/20.

The Givry, when purchased, was notable for a very strong, broad, lime – almost Riesling-like – acidity with almond hints. That persists with another 7 years of age but is less prominent as the wine has developed more richness: fudge, oily elements and notes that recall melon and, later, kiwi. The acidity is still high with a grapefruit edge at the end. In a larger glass the acidity regains strength but a warm, mineral food-demanding late palate is more striking. This still has time and Kim and I gave this 15.5/20, though I would revise that up a notch.

The PV has citrus, mango and Chamomile (!) on the nose, although the grower suggest this wine offers apricot, acacia, hawthorn in its youth, maybe these are younger lighter notes along the same lines? On the palate, roundness, fudgy richness  where citrus acidity and minerality are well integrated and balance the mango, even slight pineapple fruit. Fully mature now and scored at 18/20 by Carrie.

I think it fair to say these wines performed well, demonstrating their value and specific origins within a family resemblance of good Chardonnay. It was lovely to see everyone and taste wine like this in this setting, and we are keen to repeat it in a couple of weeks – that time with a red.

Keep safe and Bon Courage!

 

WINE IN THE TIME OF COVID

First apologies to Gabriel García Márquez for the title of this blog post. It’s not cholera, although I believe that was the disease from which the new science of Epidemiology grew in the 19th Century – we all know about that now.

We’re locked down in France, arriving on a long planned visit on March 8th. We had planned to stay until about April 22nd, but of course that looks like being longer – much longer, probably until June! There are much worse places to be. We have a half-acre garden with a newly commissioned swimming pool (one of the purposes of the visit), and we are in the countryside where social distancing is no problem at all. We visit a supermarket 3 times a fortnight and otherwise all contact is pretty well at 5 metres (post-person; neighbours; vignerons attending the vines at the bottom of the garden…). The lock down was earlier here and the number of critical care beds about double the UK and anyway our Department has a population density about the same as Cumbria. There’s much work to do in the garden – so with that, enjoying the weather, the odd walk (with the appropriate Attestation de Déplacement Dérogatoire) and wine and food there’s enough to keep us busy.

In this situation we rely heavily on our fledgling cellar, and mostly local Cabernet Franc – Red and Rosé – and Chenin Blancs; but a few other things. So for a Happy Easter post I though I’d start with a report on the highlights from among non-local wines:

MUSELLA VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2016
We ordered this from a Wine Merchant in Paris to make up a case with something special for a future ICC Tasting. We drank it with a coq-au-vin and it was stunningly good, Pitched in between a good Superiore and a good Ripasso in style, it had fresh bright plum and cherry nose with a palate that combined cranberry acidity and lightness with a grainier pruney element. Long and satisfying, a very good Valpol!

CHABLIS 1er CRU “GRANDE CUVÉE” 2010 (La Chablisienne)
This was bought at the producer a while ago and has traveled from there to cellar in Nottingham and back to France… We drank it with a roast pork and steamed leek dish, wanting a richer white. This is a generic 1er Cru, made up from parcels of several 1er Cru vineyards. Richer than many La Chablisienne 1er Cru at time of acquisition it still had that richness and creamy, buttery touches. But the mineral and acidity held up this the depth with a particularly drying finish. Great with the food – showing how long a 1er Cru can last.

COTEAUX DU LOIR “GARANCE” 2015 (Les Maisons Rouge)
This has been in our French cellar at two properties and was bought from the grower in January 2017. It’s Pineau d’Aunis – their second cuvée to the more famous Elizari  (tasted at the ICC in July that year). This had a pale brownish tinge reminiscent of aged Barolo – and a spirit sweet plum nose with herbs and… well more herbs – dried and fresh. The palate follows the nose quite closely and is rather long, the herbs seem in balance with the plum brandy sweetness and a slightly bitter herb acidity makes a compelling and rather unusual package. Perfect with herby sausage!

CHATEAU GUADET-SAINT-JULIEN SAINT-ÉMILION GCC 2003
This is another bottle brought over from the cellar in Nottingham, originally a gift some 10 years ago. This opened with wonderful plum and sous-bois nose with some herbal elements later. The palate is complex with quite crunchy mulberry fruit, darker vegetal notes, some herbs and later a grainy chocolate. Still fresh and with lovely silky tannin it had the grip for Easter Roast lamb but developing accents throughout the meal. Lovely – thanks to the donor (whoever that was).

Well, no wine parties, no tasting sessions, no vineyard visits (at the moment) and only home drinking… so that’s pretty well it on the wine front. Other interests (ahem… obsessions): sport, statistics, literature, other culture… proceed slowly or not at all…

One of the interesting things is how much different countries respond to the crisis. It easy to characterise the differences as national stereotypes –  for example the Germans have been brilliantly organised and efficient. However that seems not at all the crux – and anyway that would show the British as blitheringly incompetent… oh!

No – I think it shows more about the relations between the government, the people and the state. In Spain for example the enactment of the lock down has echoes of a not-too-distant fascist state and a tension between hostility and recognition of need.

In France (a Republic) the operation is entirely  bureaucratic… and more or less entirely consensual. The imposition has a clear Napoleonic and entirely French tone. The lock-down is enacted by decree: “décret du 16 mars 2020 portant réglementation des déplacements dans le cadre de la lutte contre la propagation du virus Covid-19”.

If you want to leave home for one of the allowed exceptions you have to self-certificate with a form called an ATTESTATION DE DÉPLACEMENT DÉROGATOIRE – fill it out, sign and date it. It’s downloadable, and was on Day 1 and if you can’t print you can write it out by hand! If you’re out without your attestation you can be fined €135 on the spot! This all seems no surprise to the French and everything’s stopped – except for the Dérogatoires. That has some problems but everything is orderly.

The contrast with the UK couldn’t be more stark. Originally the government was distracted by the idea it was just the “herd” (and not them?) that would be affected, but even more by the fact that they spend most of their time trying to pretend the state doesn’t exist. Mixed messages and dither hardly seems adequate to describe the first month or so up to proper lock-down, which was led by the people not the government. The litany of inadequacy (PPE, testing gear, vacillation, laisser-faire opacity…) mounts in retrospect, and hopefully there will be a savage retribution when the final account for the crisis is rendered.

Of course it goes almost without saying that the actual government is made up of dithering, patrician, venal idiots, but the use of the state to help the people seems so problematic in the UK in a way that it isn’t elsewhere in W. Europe. It takes the Queen – hardly a model of an egalitarian social order – to put the government to shame on national togetherness. This is because the UK state is much more aloof, serving only a minority and doesn’t even pretend to serve the people – just the right people. Now we know what the state can really do, perhaps the self-disappearing trick it made during decades of neo-liberalism might have come to an end. The whittling away over decades of the very services now needed, the invertebrate leadership – what will they cost? Half the eventual death toll? Three quarters? We’ll see…

Meanwhile – stay healthy

À Bientôt et Bon Courage!

FEBRUARY SOCK CLUB – TASTING NOTES

A small but select part of WING met for a Blind Tasting chez Corkmaster on Friday 21st February. A very enjoyable evening marked by some wonderful – and some wierd – wines.

Here are my notes:

MAILLY GRAND CRU ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE         Welcome Wine
Pink fizz with a lovely light and creamy mousse, nose is sourer summer fruit (redcurrant?) with a more vinous toasty note. The palate is also vinous with a pink grapefruit acidity, length and a creamy mouh-feel even after the bubbles have seemed to subside. One of my favourite Champagnes!

AZULEJO LISBOA BLANCO 2015          Kim  
This is made from Fernão Pires, Arinto, Vital & Moscatel by Santos Lima at their Alenquer vineyards, north of Lisbon. Picked early and fermented to make a light (9.5% alc) wine in an almost Germanic style. The nose does show some diesel nose along with fruit: gooseberry and apple come to mind. Palate has good acidity with a stewing-fruit slant and a sweetish plum hint with the lively acidity. Fresh, light and with considerable interest to drink with a light lunch!

PATRICIUS TOKAJ DRY FURMINT 2017         Carrie   
A rather honeyed nose with a slightly herby tinge, hints of nuts on the palate with citrus and the same base notes as the palate. Fresh and dashing with good lip-smacking acidity, lovely with summer salads.

VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC “LE HAUT LIEU” (Huet) 2007           Ann
Slightly earthy touch to a nose of honey and peachy fruit, with a slight cooked apple dash. The palate has a sweetness underpinned by a lovely long line of deep, warm, supple citric acidity. Wonderfully long and supple, a mineral tang underlies an evolving complex fruit acid line. Just a pleasure to drink. A great example of demi-sec vouvray – deep complex and evolved – lovely! My favourite of the night.

RESERVA PRIVADA SYRAH 2019 (VLFE)          Sue  
This is made by Luis Felipe Edwards, a large Chilean producer. The nose is dominated by oak, vanilla, germoline, and some plum fruit. The palate is very soft, sweet and juicy with a bubble-gum hint – suggesting at least some carbonic maceration?

PAĺS MAULE 2018 (Torres, Chile)           Yvonne
País is in fact an old Castilian variety called Listán Prieto. Wiped out by phylloxera in its original home it survives due to 16^th century export and renaming to: Chile (País); Mexico (Misión, and thence to California as Mission a 130 years later); and the Canary Islands (Moscatel Negro). Mainly a workhorse grape in Chile, recent attempts to make quality wine have been pioneered by French and Spanish winemakers. This Torres version has subdued scents of cherries, red plums with a supple acidity, some fruit then a herby and earthy finish – all, apparently, characteristic of País.

RESERVE CABERNET FRANC LA COTE AOC, VAUD 2011  (CIDIS, Nyon, Switzerland)         Laurie
Dark red fruit and herby notes on the nose, but not the tell-tale green pepper. A dry palate with loganberry fruit, slightly herby tannins, which are quite warm, supple and persistent, a warm peppery finish too. Quite well balanced and interesting with a slight earthy twist at the finish. Overall a more Cabernet rather than particularly Franc impression, maybe due to age.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2012 (Negrar)     John
Nose is prunes and herbs, and the palate has an immediate tannic but sweet (very sweet?) fruit, with a bitter chocolate hint. Despite the age this seems young, without the tannins being fully softened or the oily spirit quality of mature Amarone fully emerging. Promising but not quite there yet.

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA (Dorgali) 2015        Rob
Now this does have an oily and spirity nose, with  some vanilla and toast. Palate is soft plums and alcohol, smooth and rich – a warm Grenache, more in the Priorat than the Rhône style. Good

A great evening of conviviality, wine and (though I say so myself) quite nice food. It was very good to see people – thanks to those who attended and brought such interesting wines!

À Bientôt