🍷 W1NG APRIL ICC TASTING NOTES – WINES OF URUGUAY

On 4^th April 2024 the Wine in Nottingham Group met for the latest tasting of the 2024 season. The theme of this tasting was “The Wines of Uruguay”.

I have already outlined the background for this tasting in the previous post, you can (re)read it by clicking back – so I won’t repeat it here. Suffice to say the wines tasted were chosen as a good quality reflection of what’s available from this emerging country.

Here are my notes:

ALBARIÑO RESERVE 2022 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   12.5 %   –   ND John Wines £19
This showed some floral notes on the nose, as well as the usual peach/pear fruit notes. The palate has mineral background to a quite rich stone-fruit centre, with increasing citric, lip-smacking acidity. A good full-ish, food-friendly version of the grape, which by proximity to its tasting last August invites comparisons with the “La Trucha” Albariño. This is indeed similar, and very good – but perhaps not quite sharing La Trucha’s fineness or subtlety.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

“ESTIVAL” WHITE 2020 (PABLO FALLABRINO)   –   13.5 %   –   Wadebridge Wines £20
This blend of late harvested Gewürztraminer (60%) and Muscat (10%) with early picked Chardonnay (30%) has a very lemon scented, even lemon zest, attack presumably from the Chardonnay. Under that and a little recessed are the sort of ginger and floral hints one would expect from Gewürztraminer. The palate is a little unintegrated and has some lychee softness in the middle, but builds back to a lemon-peel freshness at the finish. This wine is discomforted by appearing after the Albariño, and tasted alone the next day has integrated a little more and appears fresher…
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

MARSELAN RESERVE 2021 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   12.5 %   –   ND John Wines £19
The Marselan grape, a Cab. Sauv. x Grenache – newly permitted in Bordeaux, has an open nose with herby hints (rosemary?) and red fruit. The palate has blackberry and sour red plum fruit with fine tannins and warm finish with a mineral and acidic backbone. Rather a nice wine and more satisfying, IMO, than a similarly priced Merlot – whose structural and viticultural qualities it might replace on a Bordeaux Estate? The next day it too was better integrated and resolved, allowing a bit more varietal distinctiveness. Good.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

“NOTOS” 2020 (PABLO FALLABRINO)   –   13 %   –   Wadebridge Wines £20
Well – this Nebbiolo (with 10% Tannat) had fresh and dried berries on the nose together with (and I don’t think this is prejudgment) Tar and Roses!!! The palate is very dry but there is supple and subtle fruit underpinned with a long strand of fresh acidity and fine tannins lifting the wine into a complex finish. Lovely, not quite Barolo, but showing 90% of that wine’s attractions for 1/2 (?) price. The favourite on the night and mine too…
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ^16.5/₂₀

TANNAT RESERVE 2021 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   14%   –   ND John Wines £19
This very dark, vin noir has aromas of plums and a raspberry note with a spicy hint. The palate has a tannic profile distinctive of the grape but riper and rounder versions of it than found here in Uruguay (or in SW France) 15 years ago. This allows the fruit profile – the same plums and raspberry – to show too. In fact the wine reminded me of a (younger) 100% Tannat I tasted in Salies-de-Béarn (at Domaine Lapeyre et Guilhemas) last October. That said this is a little four-square at the moment, maybe needing another 2 or 3 years?
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

SINGLE VINEYARD PETIT VERDOT 2020 (BODEGA GARZÓN)   –   14.5 %   –   ND John Wines £27
This highly coloured wine has a spirity, even downright alcoholic, nose which masks a hint of blueberry fruit. The palate has a similar profile with Italianate flavours: leather and spice – masking, rather than complementing hints of blueberry fruit and wood. The woody sense is textural rather than the effect of oak: the wine is in 4th-use large casks for 12-18 months. This wine is very big, with big separate components achieving a long and impressive wine that somehow wasn’t very pleasurable. A day later there was some integration and maybe another half-point of pleasure. One can see what a small amount adds to a Bordeaux blend, but the least interesting red IMO, and quite expensive.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

A rather interesting tasting I thought, and in the opinion of the group too. A range of well made wines with distinctive character and – in the main – showing quality and interest throughout. Certainly in my mind it aroused an interest in the capability of Uruguay in the wine market and a curiosity to taste further…. Arinarnoa anyone?

À Bientôt

🍷 A Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tasting

Last Friday a small cross-section of the former W1NG Tutured Tasting group made their way to Paul and Anna’s house to taste some Châteauneuf.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first area to be classified in the modern AOC system, in 1936. It takes it’s name from the small town at its centre, but extends over 5 communes – covering about 3,200 hectares. 95% of production is red, the remainder white. Permitted grape varieties number 13: 8 red and 5 white, and quite unusually the white grapes can be included in the red blend. The main red grapes are Grenache; Syrah; Mourvèdre; Cinsault and Counoise – but there are 3 other lesser known red varieties: Muscardin; Vaccarèse and Terret – heard of them before? Me neither! On the white side, permitted are Clairette; Rousanne; Bourboulenc; Picpoul and Picardin – I expect all but the last will be familiar. Most red Châteauneuf-du-Pape is based on Grenache, but the rules don’t exclude – for example – a 100% Syrah or 100% Mourvèdre..

Here’s a map showing the area:

So, while the blend of grapes is one factor in the range of wine styles within the appellation – another is soil composition. The map shows 8 general styles of soil structure – nearly every style has 2 or 3 sub-categories – theoretically influencing the wine.
In general, sandy soil makes for fruity open styles; limestone for more acidity and freshness – and also tannins; clay for darker fruit, power and structure; mixed soils add to the vintage-expressiveness of the blend…
Another factor is freshness, in this area acidity in the wines are helped by cooler nights and therefore bigger diurnal temperature ranges. On the other hand the prevalence of large heat-retaining stones, called Galets, on the surface in some areas can mitigate that …

Of course some growers will have holdings in one place with a distinctive terroir – others will have holdings in several places around the area, with different soils which can be factored into the blend.

Anna and Paul decided to focus the tasting on two producers: Domaine Raymond Usseglio and Domaine Cristia who exemplify these two sorts of geographic sources.

Domaine USSEGLIO is based in the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself, but the domain has 24 hectares in various parcels throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape – in varied soils, including sandstone, red clay, sandy hillsides, limestone rocks and rolling galets well exposed to the sun. These conditions, and their practice of suiting grapes to parcels, allows a measured maturity and depth to the wines – they claim.

Domaine CRISTIA is a biodynamic estate of 19Ha of 90% sandy terroirs located in the eastern sector of the appellation (“Cristia” can be seen on the map above). Most of the plots benefit from a North–East exposure, which gives the vines a freshness and allows you to obtain grapes and wines with supple and elegant tannins. A single plot, located in the place called “l’Arnesque” to the east of the appellation, is covered with rolled pebbles which bear witness to the passage of the Rhône, and benefits from full sunshine. The heat absorbed during the day is thus returned at night, which allows the maintenance of a constant temperature which is good for maturity but keeps acid in check.

We started the tasting with a pair or 2004s – one from each producer. Here are some notes:

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 Domaine Usseglio (75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre)
Nose has a fruit attack with some herbal, almost minty or menthol notes. The palate has an immediate fruit and stony minerality with hints of blackberry… more forest floor, slightly mushroom and even truffle appear later. Changes even more with further time showing some spice, fine structure and deeper flavours.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 Domaine de Cristia (80% G, 5% S, 5% M, 5% Cinsault, 5% Counoise)
This is slightly darker with fresher acidity, suggesting food. The nose has a lighter fragrance but bigger softer flavours and a warmer overall impression. The nose remains quiet, and the palate more open – with herb rather than spice and a hint of liquorice on the finish.

There followed the same pair but from 2007 – quite a well ranked vintage, although I’ve so far always preferred the ’04.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 Domaine Usseglio (80%, 10% M, 6% S, 2% Cinsault, 2% Counoise)
Similar nose to the ’04 but a touch lighter and slightly dilute seeming. Against that the nose had slightly more subtlety and even floral hints – lots of light touch perfume but not integrated, and similar suggestions of secondary flavours but not (yet) fully resolved. Compared to the same Domaine’s ’04 it seemed somehow incomplete – could it still be evolving? After 17 years??

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 Domaine de Cristia (same grapes as 2004)
This was a big contrast to the Usseglio ’07, and along similar lines to the first pair. This was slightly spirity with cherry brandy notes – palate is soft and sweet with less complexity and structure and easy to quaff. In many ways this spoke of the lightness from a sandy terroir even more than the ’04.

Finally another pair served blind – a 2009 from one of these two Domaines, set alongside another 2009 wine from a different appellation!! Which is the Châteauneuf-du-Pape? Which Domaine is it?? What is the other appellation???

Wine 5 had quite a hard nose with slightly burnt fruit tones, more spice and recessed fruit on the palate, opening a bit with time. Compared to 6 it seemed to have simpler fruit and more rustic tannins…
Wine 6 had a slightly lighter slightly softer nose, finer tannins some warm alcohol hints, peppery notes, a tighter structure and the hint of secondary flavours beginning…

I think we quickly concluded that both were Southern Rhône wines with similar grape blends, and although the flavour profiles were very similar a consensus emerged that wine 6 was finer, more complex and probably the Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While the contrasting wine probably came from another named village of S. Rhône. Several villages were named, but John trumped everyone by guessing Gigondas – which proved to be the case!

5 was Gigondas 2009 Domaine Brusset (50G, 30S, 20M)
6 was Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 Domaine Usseglio (same grapes as 2007)

Overall a very interesting tasting: my personal favourite was the first wine; I generally preferred the Usseglio to the Cristia and 2004 seemed the best vintage, right now, to my palate. In the round I felt we could detect the difference between a sandy soil wine and one with more limestone and clay under the grapes! In addition it showed that Châteauneuf is capable of fineness as well as power in comparison to other S. Rhône wines.

So – congratulations to John. And profound thanks to Anna and Paul for the wines, the organisation of the tasting and hosting a pleasant, informative and convivial evening.

À Bientôt

The Nottingham Wine Festival

Last Saturday I attended the Nottingham Wine Festival. I went to the previous version, pre-COVID, a couple of years ago and was keen to try it again. The first “walk round” tasting I have attended so I wanted to assess how that worked – and of course try some Wines.

The 12 wine suppliers represented were: Gauntleys Fine Wine; Weavers Wine; Laithwaites; Majestic; Mr & Mrs Fine Wine; Amber Valley Wines; Hanwell Wine Estate; Delilah’s; Brigitte Bordeaux; The Wine Room; San Martino Wine & Wriggly Tin Wine. A chocolate, a Gin and a Deli supplier each also had tables as did the organisers – Notts Derby Wine School.

The first thing to say is that the wines offered were a step up in variety and quality from that of the first Festival. I remember at the time many of “my” Wine Group attended and several, independently, told me afterwards that the typical wines I brought to Thursday Tastings (averaging £14 a bottle at the time) were of a consistently higher quality. I concentrated my tastings this time around that price point and found some lovely, and good value wines…

Most of the improvement in quality came in the reds. I suppose it’s likely when invited to show 8 wines at a pre-Xmas tasting that retailers will show crowd pleasers and instant attention wines. That pretty well excludes more complex wines taking time to evolve… and that seemed less extreme this time, with much more leeway and variety, especially with reds. However why is sale-ability so often interpreted as “bland” in relation to whites? Although less pronounced than 2 years ago I found many whites lacking in character.

So – what were my highlights? Whites are easy – although there were several reasonable wines showing their styles with some typicity, there were as many bland ones too – and only one that stood out. Eins Zwei Dry Rheingau Riesling 2019 (Leitz) from Brigitte Bordeaux was my white wine of the night – showing citrus acidity and peachy, slightly tropical, fruit and distinct Riesling nose, plenty of character and only 12% alcohol. [Declaration of (non-financial) Interest: I am close friends and longtime wine associates of the owners of BB – but unlike some politicians this doesn’t colour my recommendation. More of an influence might be my well-known love of Riesling…]

Red highlights – there were a few, and I’ll mention all my favourites… The Barbera DOC Colli Piacentini 2019 from San Martino; the Priorat Cellar Cal Pla Crianza from Weavers; the Bogle Old Vines Zinfandel 2018 from Brigitte Bordeaux; and finally the super-Tuscan Argiano ‘Non-Confunditur” 2018 from Delilahs Wine. All are quite big wines – sort of confirming my point that these events don’t give time for subtler wines to grow and develop…

My red wine of the night is Argiano ‘Non-Confunditur” 2018 from Delilah’s Wine. Argiano are a well known producer of Brunello and a good value Rosso di Montalcino, which appeared in the blog back in October 2013 (!)

This is Sangiovese with Cabernet and Merlot and showed aromas of red fruits (cherries and raspberries), plum and herby tones with some non-fruit leathery Italianate hints. Dry, long and showing supple tannins, lovely.

The wine was helped by the guy from Delilah’s having decanted it, allowing the aroma to develop and some softening to occur in the time (3 hours in my case) before it was tasted – suggesting development time left in the wine of a few years.

This merit point for Delilah’s was offset by a demerit for only staffing their table with one person – leading to queues – more about this later. At least he knew abut the wines – more than could be said for every person staffing every table.

As for the exhibitors in general, they were helpful and knowledgeable but somewhat over-crowded. Picking any to highlight is difficult, but I was particularly struck by the online-only San Martino Wines showing wines from Emilio-Romagna – partly as they were new to me. One of the 4 outstanding reds above is their Barbera, and they had more quite close with their Sangiovese and their, more expensive, ‘A’ Qveri Rubicone Rosso.

Finally a few points about the organisation. I’ve already mentioned the bottlenecks caused by only having one pourer at a stand. But many more bottlenecks were created by people standing in front of the table working their way through the whole list of a supplier, discussing each wine and blocking access. Normally enraging, in times of COVID it caused very non-distanced proximity too. The solutions would be for exhibitors to have a wider frontage and a separation of sample pouring from discussion, and clear guidelines not to occupy the pourers for more than a few seconds for basic information on the wine. Of course this would require staffing the stalls with at least 2 people. These arrangements are in the hands of the organisers to make in specifying the set-up next year – when I hope to be attending again.

That’s all from my this time.
Take care and only drink the good stuff.

A ZOOM CHIANTI TASTING

On Friday 10th July, Kim and I were joined by Jenny and Carrie, to taste some Chianti  Actually there were only two wines as Carrie had the same bottle as Kim and I. I think Helen & Brenda also have an identical bottle and may add a note later.

The wines were:

Villa Cambi Chianti Superiore 2014 (Castel di Pugna)
Lornano Chianti Classico 2015

The Superiore was sourced by CorkMaster from the (now sadly defunct) direct-importing-club 3D Wines. It is from close to Sienna and is composed of Sangiovese 90%, Colorino 5% and other old traditional red varieties. It is 13% abv.
Kim and I found a pruney nose, with  fruit cake notes emerging and a supple but noticable sour cherry note. A very typical set of Chianti aromas.  The palate has a vinous undertow a full and rich pruney and dried fruit middle and a long acid line adding refreshment, and some spice (baking spice) brought out with the food. Carrie found similar flavours with some dried fruit and herbal (dill?) notes on the palate too. Later in a bigger glass we all found more non-fruit flavours: liquorice, leather, farmyard and the acid and fruit lines more merged giving a slightly lighter fresher fruit – more like damson. A beautifully balanced wine drinking well now, and just when you think the finish is going a bit soft (a possibility with some Chianti…) a tannic but supple postscript creeps in. Very good!

The Classico is pure Sangiovese from the Castellina area, aged in French oak and coming in a 14.5% abv. A little cool at first leading to a recessed nose but a warming spirity note. Damson notes and a sharp outline of more concentrated redcurrant fruit. Quite big with tannin and a sharp finish. Later more open with warmer fruit and a leather note, giving a savoury impression and working with savoury food. Even later much more integrated and balanced and working well with Parmesan. Still quite a sharp finish but richer and rounder. Probably a little young for a big year with high acidity. In Chianti, as elsewhere some later vintages seem more ready.

A very interesting tasting showing how satisfying Sangiovese can be – but how styles, areas and vintages can differ.

Not sure when the next post will be – or on what subject. At least a week away I think….

Until then

Stay Safe and Cheers!

RIESLINGS TO BE CHEERFUL

On Friday 26th June, Kim and I were joined by Jenny, Carrie, Ann & John and Helen & Brenda to taste five Riesling wines.  Actually there were four wines as two bottles were the same. Carrie had arranged with Helen & Brenda to acquire and open identical bottles.

Rheingau

Marlborough

Alsace

Nahe (x2)

The four wines were:

Hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling Spätlese 2015 (von Simmern, Rheingau)
Hunter’s Riesling 2017 (Marlborough)
Riesling Hugel “Jubilee” 2007 (Alsace)
Riesling Queen of Whites (Weingut Tesch, Nahe)

Kim and I found lightish diesel hints with aromas of lime, honey, floral elements – maybe elderflower and passion fruit in this 11% abv, Rhiengau example. With similar flavours on the palate but disappointingly unintegrated – a slightly crystalline sweet attack (candied peel and then soft peach) followed by – and rather separate from – a sharp, spritzy but warm acidity with a hint of spice….There was a better balance with time, and for being slightly colder, and finally a bigger glass (see below). But initially only warranted a 14 or 15 out of 20.

The Marlborough was crisp and dry at 12.5%, showing lime and grapefruit acidity with some peachy fruit  and tropical fruits surfacing later. A zesty wine with other fruit hints later (apple? tropical fruits?) but dominant lime flavours… Jenny gave this 15.

The Alsace was bone dry – even slightly austere with diesel notes and a strong acidity. The acidity seemed to move towards the lime with time and had complexity with softer fruit  underneath the line of steely acidity. Some richer components later and this mature wine got 17 / 20 from John.

The Nahe Wine is made only about 10 miles SW of the Rheingau wine as the crow flies (although it’s nearly 3 times as far by car – to drive one must go miles East to Wiesbaden to cross the Rhein). Rheingau soils are deep, chalky, loess  while Nahe has more varied soil with volcanic and slate elements too. Helen & Brenda found the wine fully dry, showed good acidity,  lime flavours and a strong finish. Carrie sensed an acacia element and a honey note on he nose but palate leading with lime too. Later the wine seemed to develop more richness, an oily hint and some diesel… Everyone reported the lime retreating a little giving a more grapefruit touch. Also everyone gave the wine a 15 – but felt it might improve with a few years…

 

For the second half of the tasting Kim and I  put the Rheingau in a more traditional glass. As one might imagine the nose became lighter and subtler but the sweetness and acidity gained in integration – rather surprisingly. Now the sweet attack with a limey finish was replaced by a line of softer citrus acidity – mandarin came to my mind –  without lessening the floral or soft fruit complexity, lip-smackingly good, and in my opinion raising its score from 14 to 16!

 

So a rather late post – as the weather here is cooler but dry and I am able to work in the garden every day. So the next post will also be on wine – specifically a Zoom Chianti tasting. So it’ll be another 2 weeks before a post on current UK Government “performance”! I’m sure you can wait.

À Bientôt

JANUARY SOCK CLUB – TASTING NOTES

On Friday January 24th the WING group was hosted by Yuan for a Blind Tasting Party. This date coincided with the Chinese New Year (actually about 16.00 UK Time) – so 新年快乐 (Xīnnián kuàilè) to all readers.

Yuan prepared delicious Chinese food for the occasion – and we grazed throughout the evening making for a very enjoyable wine and food experience. The wines too were very good. Here are my notes:

NYTIMBER CLASSIC CUVEE   –   Welcome Wine
This has a light but slightly yeasty nose with a long gentle moose and a sharp citrus acidity and a slightly sweet fruit. In a Champagne style with some nervosity (poise and vibrancy) but a little too ample compared to a good Champagne. Very good though.

DOMAINE JONES GRENACHE GRIS 2014 (IGP Cotes Catalanes)   –   Sue T
Nose has a peach / apricot fruit with some mandarin and floral notes. Palate echoes the mandarin in the citrus acidity and has light fruit and a well structured mineral finish. Light and precise, compared to the breadth and sometimes flabbiness of a Grenache Blanc. A rare treat!

MARIN CHASSELAS 2016 (Delalex)   –   Yuan
Marin is a cru of Savoie, like Marestel – (see November SP Post on 26/11/19) This has floral notes and a light nutty hint, the palate is light and fresh with a line of mid-weight minerality, warm (almost Sauvignon Blanc) acidity and a herby touch. Another precise rendition of a sometimes flabby grape – Very good!

CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC 2012 (Fagotiere)   –   Laurie
This is Grenache Blanc/ Rousanne/ Clairette and has quite a big nose including some non-fruit elements: herbs, nut oil… Palate is long with a mineral uplift and a drying finish – the balance of structure and richness is the main event here giving interest and pleasure.

So – on to the reds:

LE CARILLON DE VENDÔME – MONTAGNE BLANCHE (Cave Co-op Coteaux du Vendômois)   –   Paul M
Le Carillon de Vendôme is a nursery rhyme dating back to the 15^th Century and believed to be France’s oldest folk song. The wine is made by the cave Cooperative in Vendômois and is their leading red. It is about half Pineau d’Aunis, and a quarter each Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. The wine shows its three components well – pencil lead nose and an earthy note from the Cabernet, herbal tones throughout from the Pineau d’Aunis, and raspberry and strawberry fruit from the Pinot Noir. These aren’t entirely integrated but in this wine that is an advantage as the three interplay with increasing interest. Quite a light wine but in many ways my favourite of the night!

ABRAHAM & THE HERETICS PINOTAGE 2015 (Stellenbosch)   –   Mike T
This is a Richard Kelly Wine – designed, very successfully, to appeal to non-fans of Pinotage. This has a warm, sweet fruit nose indicating a New World wine – with a soft damson flavour. Palate is (only) slightly earthy, and the supple fruit is more on the Pinot side and a youthful acid zing. If Pinotage can be light and without overpowering earth and rubber – then this is… Very enjoyable…

RIOJA “CONTINO 935” RESERVA 2015   –  John
Light oak with a minty / menthol hint and a red cherry note. The palate has a warmer cherry fruit and some sweetness but with good acid backbone and some delicacy. A fresh style from Graciano in the blend and the woody comes out as a balsamic note rather than vanilla. Excellent lightish Reserva!

QUINTA DO GAIVOSA 2013 (Alves de Sousa)  –   Kim
This Douro wine is made from port grapes (Touriga Nacional with Touriga Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barocca and others) by a Port producer. A rich dark fruit nose with some leathery notes, and herby hints. Palate has deep blueberry and blackberry fruit with some sweetness with a dark bodied, typical Douro, graininess at the finish. Fine and compelling!

“THE STICKS & STONES” 2011 (D’Arenberg)   –   Anna
This McLaren Vale wine from the wonderfully idiosyncratic D’Arenberg house is composed of Tempranillo (60%), Grenache (25%), Souzao (13%) and Tinta Cao (2%). It has damson notes with a savoury hint and a sweet palate – but lifted by subtle tannins tinged with dry herbs and spice – giving the wine light and depth. Suggesting again that Australian success might be better served with Iberian or Italian, rather than French grapes! Very good.

CHÂTEAU BEAUMONT 2009   –   Paul C
This mature Haut-Medoc  Cru Bourgeois has a nose of dark black fruit and sous-bois. The palate has a sweet black fruit element with some woody and herby notes. The palate seems slightly hot, even with the intervening years since this vintage – but with food gives a lovely supple frame, due perhaps to over 40% Merlot in the blend…

CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON LIRAC 2014   –   Ann
This is a big wine with plummy Grenache notes and some wood. The palate is big with red fruit, plums and a creamy but spicy length. A muscular Southern Rhone from a right bank site – equivalent IMO to the more common Vacqueyras.

JURANÇON “GRAPPE D’OR” 2006 (Domaine Montesquiou)   –   Janine
This is made from Petit Manseng harvested at the extreme of overmaturity with little or no botrytis. The nose shows dried apricot and candied citrus fruits, rather than marmalade. The palate has honey, quince and dried apricot again,  balanced by a lovely long supple acidity that gives this wine freshness and an exceptional length. A lovely, lovely finish to the evening.

Thank you everyone – especially Yuan for her generosity and hospitality – for a lovely evening.

À Bientôt

DECEMBER TUTORED TASTING – SPAIN “UNDER THE WIRE”

On Monday 2nd December the WING Tutored Tasting Group met to Taste slightly off-the-beaten-track wines from Spain. Yvonne presented the wines on her Birthday.

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Here are my notes:

VALDESIL “PEZAS DA PORTELA” GODELLO (Valdeorras) 2015 
Some early pungency with herbs and some spirit fruit – apricot brandy?! Palate has some soft fruit and a sharper over-ripe mango exotic touch, a drying mineral finish stops the size and softness being too much. Rather rich and a rich price at £25.

HERENCIA DEL CAPRICHIO GODELLO (Bierzo) 2014
This nose is even fatter, creamy with some oak hints and a pronounced salinity. Palate is almost savoury with the saltiness prevalent and a very rich (too rich?) texture. A bit too much for me and I suspect it’s easily to find some good Burgundies at the price that would be better balanced and more enjoyable!

CUEVAS DE AROM PEDRA FORCA  (Campo Borja) 2016
A Grenache-Syrah blend, showing much more Syrah, in a fruit driven – partly carbonic maceration – package. Fruity nose, with a floral hint. Palate is simple and forward fruit with a warm Syrah profile, easy quaffing!

TOMAS CUSINE “GEOL” (Costers del Segre) 2016
Samsó (Carignan) 60%, Merlot 30% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%.
Some hints of chocolate and cherry fruit. The palate has quite crunchy fruit with red and black berries. Some smoothness and (relative) delicacy for a Carignan, showing again lower cropping, and less fertile soils can bring some character from a “workhorse” grape.

DOMAINE LUPIER “EL TERROIR” GARNACHA (Navarra) 2012
Herby and slightly spirit nose with a black fruit note. The palate shows the same with a big succulent fruit holding up the 14½ % alcohol, in a vaguely Châteauneuf package. Rather enjoyable with enough development to hold interest. Great value around £17

SAN ROMAN (Toro) 2014
This is a Tempranillo with a slightly peppery nose and some red fruit. Firm palate with supple and mouthwatering tannins suggest a variety of dishes. Balanced and poised and enjoyable with a a supple long finish. A lovely climax to the evening, but at £30ish, it needs to be.

A very enjoyable tasting that mounted through the reds in an appealing ascending arc. I loved the last two wines and they were best value and best wine – respectively – for me.

Thanks Yvonne for an interesting tasting and for struggling against a cold to provide our refreshment – on your own Birthday too! Many Happy Returns!

À Bientôt

NOVEMBER SOCK PARTY TASTING NOTES

On Friday 22nd November WING members met for a Blind Tasting Party chez Kim.

Here are my notes:

CAVA BRUT 2014 (Marques del Norte)   –   Welcome Wine
Tell-tale gluey nose with a hint of pear and a slightly oxidised (over-aged?) note. Some apple on the palate with a dough note with a light but short-ish mousse. The wine has typicity and some length but slightly oxidised which re-emphasises the gluey note.

GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017 (Diemersdal)   –   Yvonne
From Durbanville, 25 kms. North-East of Cape town this wine has an immediate nutty nose with soft fruit following. Palate too is soft with spicy note and a fruit juice acidity and some mineral at the finish. Quite supple with a rich balance, more Chardonnay than the Grüner Veltliner it turns out to be. Surprisingly rich but very interesting.

“EXCELLENCE D’AUTOMNE” ROUSETTE DE SAVOIE, MARESTEL 2010 (Cellier de Soudan)   –   Laurie
As the name implies this is harvested late and although fermented to 14% is still off-dry. Some fruit on the nose, pungent honey and spiced apple, together with a herby – even fennel note, and tinges of marmalade. Palate has similar notes but is kept fresh by a long acid line. A wine kept interesting by its complexity, showing the ability of the Altesse grape to age.

TBILVINO QVEVRIS 2017 (Kakheti, Georgia)   –   Mike
A buried-amphora (qvevri) “orange” wine made from Rkatsiteli. The nose is very herby with some apple and sherry notes and a rich fruit element. The palate seems dilute by comparison, and is therefore a bit disappointing. Dry, slightly saline and simple.

On to the Reds:

MARANGES “LE BOIS DE CLEMENTINE” 2016 (Chevrot)   –   John
Dark red colour with a cherry and plum fruit note and a hint of farmyard and flowers. Palate has a muted hint of supple tannins with a deep note of plums and some complex secondary flavours – herbs, spice…. Rather rich for a Maranges and a whole notch bigger than the 2010 which was (and remains) subtler and a touch more elegant. This comes over as a mid-sized Côte de Nuits and makes up for that slight missing elegance with increased richness. Lovely!

BERONIA RIOJA RESERVA 2013    –   Yuan
Inky red with a chocolate and spice nose. Palate has tannin and red fruit and a slight woody twist, but little discernable vanilla. The palate shows a little sweetness from oak but the structure is firm and has a spicy (garam masala?) hint. Impressivly structured and pliant.

CARASCAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 (Weinert, Argentina)   –   Ann
Dark fruit with a woody (cedar?) note. Palate has a sweeter fruit and a fuller profile than most varietal Cabernet Sauvignon… but very balanced and quite supple even at this – relatively – young age.

PONTE CANAS 2014 (Mouchão)   –   Rob
This is an Alentejo wine made from Touriga Nacional and Franca plus Syrah. It shows a stewed fruit nose with some spice and wood. The palate has powdery black fruit and an olives and herbs counterpoint, plenty of acidity leading to a slightly saline finish. A food wine of character.

ABRAHAM & THE HERETICS PINOTAGE 2012 (Stellenbosch)   –   Sue
This is a Richard Kelly Wine – designed to appeal to non-fans of Pinotage, of which I number myself – I find many examples too big and too earthy. This has a sweet fruit nose indicating a New World wine – with a soft damson flavour. Palate is (only) slightly earthy, and the supple fruit is more on the Pinot side. If Pinotage can be subtle then this is… Rather enjoyable…

IS ARENAS RISERVA 2015 (Sardus Pater)   –   Kim
This is a Carignano del Sulcis DOP from Sardinia, where it grows in the South West corner on sandy soil, mitigating its normal watery vigour. This is classy with some floral notes to add to the slightly redcurrant tinged fruit that low-cropped Carignan can bring. It also has a herby element and darker, more dried fruit. The palate has these flavours too and is quite smooth but still has a slight lean-ness to its structure that maybe needs another year or too. Very classy indeed.

TERREMENT HAUT-MONTRAVEL 2007 (Château Puy-Servain)   –   Dessert Wine
Nose has a floral hint amongst the honey notes. Palate has warm sweetness with a butterscotch, slightly burning sweetness and a long widening orange marmalade finish. Balanced and delightful, though a little sweet for the Tarte au citron, would have perfectly matched a crème brûlée – but hey….

Thanks so much to Kim and everyone present for a wonderful evening, lingering over very good wines. It’s hard to pick top wine … I liked many… in fact only the Georgian Amphora wine disappointed.

À Bientôt

CARRY ON UP THE LOIRE – NOVEMBER ICC TASTING NOTES

On Thursday 14^th November the ICC Group met to taste Wines from the Loire Valley. The tasting focused on the “big names” from up the river and back.

Here are my notes:

CLOS DES MONTYS “V V 1914” MUSCADET 2016   –   12%   –   Stone, Vine & Sun   £16
From its nadir 20 odd years ago Muscadet has upped its game and is achieving some good wines – even a rare 100 pointer. This isn’t at that dizzying height but has an orchard fruit nose, with an (over?) ripe pear flavour, a hint of warm spice, clean acidity and a persistent pithy mineral finish. Dynamic and characterful…
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

SAVENNIÈRES “LE MOULIN DU GUÉ” 2017 (Domaine des Forges)   –   13½%   –   Stone, Vine & Sun  £17
Notes of honey and honeysuckle, a round warm note with a touch of caramel. Palate has a strong persistent acidity but warm from some (old) oak aging and proceeds to a long peach-stone fruity finish. A lot going on in this wine – purity but also evolution in the glass. The evening’s favourite for a majority (including me)
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ^16.5/₂₀

POUILLY-FUMÉ “SILICE” 2017 (Blanchet)   –   13%   –   Stone, Vine & Sun   £17
Some herbal notes on the nose – one could say smoke!? Also this has the usual green SB indicators without the in-your-face gooseberry or (worse) asparagus or redcurrant. The palate is long with a more citrus acidity and mineral bitter and nettle hints. A very good SB!
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

SANCERRE ROUGE 2017 (Cherrier)   –   13%   –   Stone, Vine & Sun   £17.50
A light coloured Pinot with characteristic red fruit and herbal notes. The palate is light and slightly simple but shows a nice acid line and crunchy cherry fruit. Good simple food Pinot without the depth of good Burgundy,
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ^14.5/₂₀

CHINON “LES BOIS DE BEAUMONT” 2014 (Rousse)   –   12½%   –   Stone, Vine & Sun   £16.50
One of the two bottles of this was corked so half the group (including me) missed out. However a reliable source provided this note: “A rich nose of black fruits. The palate is crisp, supple and round but without heaviness, some sweet soft fruit  – earthy, silky tannins… light and slightly simple”.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

SAUMUR-CHAMPIGYNY “TRADITION” 2017 (Domaine de la Guilloterie)   –   13½%   –   Stone, Vine & Sun  £13.50
A very typical Cabernet Franc with raspberry, stalkiness and a hint of green pepper.  The palate follows the same flavours with an earthy twist and good length and depth. Very satisfying.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^16.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁷/₂₀

A lovely tasting with six varietal wines showing good typicity. The more complex wines: the Savennières and the Saumur-Champigny;  won out for me but the Pouilly showed very well too

À Bientôt

NOVEMBER TUTORED TASTING: KNIGHTOR & 300 UP!

Hello again everyone. I was happy to attend (a little unexpectedly) November’s Tutored Tasting when Ann and John treated us to a tasting of wines from the English Winery, Knightor. Knightor is one of five wineries in Cornwall, not to far from the more famous Camel Valley. Knightor are situated on the South coast in the St. Austell area – quite close to the Eden Project. Their vineyards are at Portscatho (to the West) and Seaton (to the East) along the South Cornish Coast.

Ann and John showed two sparklers, a white and three reds… Here are my notes:

KNIGHTOR CLASSIC CUVÉE BRUT N/V
This is a blend of Reichensteiner, Huxulrebe, Kerner, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Seyval Blanc. In other words mostly Germanic crossings found quite commonly (though I think decreasingly) in English Wine. This is a fizzy wine with some dash – a good mousse, florality and some acidity. A slightly bitter (pithy) – sweet palate and as one might expect rather Germanic – original and pleasurable, but at £27 rather pricey!

KNIGHTOR CLASSIC CUVÉE BRUT ROSÉ N/V
The same blend but with Rondo added. The nose is similar but with a more confectionery aspect, the mousse is quite good and the wine has strong acidity but all rather disparate. Less integrated and simpler than the white.

KNIGHTOR “TREVANNION” 2016
A blend of the Germanic crossings Siegerrebe & Schonburger. The nose is pungent with grapefruit and rose water – in a package rather reminiscent of Gewürztraminer. The palate follows with acidity and slight bitterness of grapefruit and grapefruit peel overlying a richness and some herbal and nutty notes. Quite successful and would be good with the same food as Gewürz. At £19 one might find a cheaper version of the real thing for less – but good.

KNIGHTOR “CARPE DIEM” N/V
This is from Regent; Pinot Noir and Rondo.Slightly dilute nose with a frizzy hint. The palate has acidity and a dark body of soft berry fruit and some herbal notes but little tannin and quite simple. This is their cheapest red (at £16) but still seems high priced – not terrible though….

KNIGHTOR PINOT NOIR 2016.
Very Pinot nose of red sweet fruit, a hint of herbs and farmyard – but frizzy again. Pretty berry fruit on the palate, a bit of grip but rather fruit-juicy and simple.

KNIGHTOR MERLOT / CAB. SAUVIGNON 2016
Germolene medicinal notes, some woody and sweet fruit. Palate is excessively sweet, plum crumble – and, again, very simple.

A fascinating tasting which confirms my impression (prejudice?) of English wine – simple reds, interesting white, good bubbly – all with a danger of losing control of sweetness and about 25% too expensive.

I noticed quite by chance that this is the 300th post on the main page of this blog. Coming quite close to the 20th Anniversary of ICC Tastings and my own “decimal-significant” birthday it made me wonder if I should pontificate on this concurrence (what would be the proper collective noun) of milestones?

I can only report on my current thinking about how narrow – or otherwise – one’s wine collection might be if one was only drinking at home, for pleasure. As opposed to running wine classes, exploring areas and always learning… This echoes a post I wrote on 2nd March 2017 about establishing a second cellar in France where that would only serve that first purpose.

These thoughts quickly turn to what is essential in the cellar? How many styles of wine / grape varieties would one have to have? Riesling; Chenin; Chardonnay – certainly! Cabernet Franc; Sangiovese; Pinot Noir… of course… and then??? Nebbiolo; Tempranillo; Sauvignon Blanc; Gewurz; Manseng; Italian Whites; Rhone blends…..  who knows… and then further afield from those 4 countries where all those above are concentrated?

The thing is that no such restrictions are forced on one…

Or as the poet said:

.     Milestones and Millstones
.              sink in sea.
.                Not me!

À Bientôt

AUGUST SOCK PARTY

The Group visited Cropwell Bishop for a blind-Tasting party on Friday 23^rd August, hosted by Sue and Johnny. The evening was a very convivial with lovely wines and food… I confess in the interval I have been distracted by the effort and organisation of transportation to France (not to mention the antics of a UK “Government” that seems entirely likely to re-introduce transportation to further climes!).

Here are my notes, first the whites:

SEGURA VIUDAS BRUT RESERVA HEREDAD nv                 Welcome Wine
Lovely tell-tale gluey nose of cava with a very fine mousse. Palate is lively and refreshing and (for a cava) long… citrus and some floral notes – slightly smokey and quite elegant – very good!

SOAVE CALVARINO 2014 (Pieropan)        Laurie   
Fresh and lively nose with citrus and a floral hint – some stony and herby notes too. The palate is very long and structured rather like a good Chablis with some oily character and a very late nutty hint – but wearing its richness with vivacity and lightness… lovely

CHABLIS  PREMIER CRU 2013 (Morrison’s “Best”, made by Les Chablisienne)      Ann  
And – as if by magic – the very thing to use as a comparison with the previous. Again citrus and nutty nose but a deeper fruit, apricot? Palate has a lot of fruit and some spice, good length and a mineral finish – a little richer than the Soave and a little less dashing but lovely too…

ARINTO  2018  (Lisboa)       Yvonne 
An uncommon grape also found in Vinho Verde (by the name of Pederna). This has fresh, slightly grassy, citric dash with other herbs and a slightly sappy feel. The palate has warm acidity and a nettle note recalling a light old world Sauvignon Blanc

On to the reds…

MARZEMINO DELLE VENEZIE 2017        Kim
Very Beaujolais profile – cherry and darker fruit but a light body and acidity. Slightly greenish herbal note – asks for a pasta / pesto dish IMO.

KNIGHTOR PINOT NOIR 2017   Cornwall           John
Red fruit nose with hints of Fenugreek. Palate has a red fruit base with an acidity tinged with grapefruit peel – moving to a leaf and indeed leaf-mould hint, herbal hints and a vaguely Alsace profile… clearly a cool climate Pinot with a light but food-friendly structure.

CHÂTEAU LA CROIX DE PEZ 2014  Saint-Estèphe         Johnny
Nose is quite hard with  later fruit and forest-floor flavours. Palate is dry with a red fruit line tannis and some acidity… A little young ( 2 or 3 years?) but very good…

ISOLA DEI NURAGHI BOVALE IGT “U TABARKA CIÙ ROUSSOU” 2015       Rob
Bovale is the grape in this clearly Italianate wine from Sardinia!  This is a bit confusing as Bovale Grande is Mazuelo/Carignan, whereas this wine is Bovale Piccolo which is Graciano. Both varieties came to Sardinia from Spain and here the wine has clearly an Italian accent – oily, warm plum and liquotice nose and a palate with firm tannin and a dried prune note: drying, satisfying and structured – very good!

L’AURA DE CAMBON MARGAUX 2016          Sue
This has a clear Cabernet flavour profile, but is much softer than that suggests – and in fact is a 50:50 blend with Merlot. Replanted in 2006 this is quite luscious with a classy Margaux profile. Definitely modern in style – but very well done.

TRAMINER  SPÄTLESE 2015 (Winebau Wartha)  Burgenland Austria                  Farewell Wine   
A very sweet fruit and honeyed wine with a dash of acidity. Just pleasure with cheese or dessert….

An interesting evening where I liked every wine – an uncommon occurrence. Thanks to all and especially Sue.

À Bientôt

AUGUST TUTORED TASTING: Valpolicella

On Monday 5^th August Kim showed the WING Tutored Tasting Group wines from Valpolicella.

Valpolicella is a Demoninazione in the Verona region of the Veneto in N. E. Italy. The area is about 70-100 kms West of Venice, and forms an arc of about 15kms radius North and North East of the lovely town of Verona. So its eastern border is with the Soave wine region.

The area produces getting on for 80 million bottles a year in four styles, of which Kim showed a pair of each of the three most common.

Grapes for Valpolicella centre upon the Corvina, and to a lesser extent its cousin Corvinone. Recent regulations require 45% – 90% Corvina of which up to half can be Corvinone, so the regulations recognise the latter grape but only does so as a “version” of the former. Rondinella is the other main grape which can comprise 5% – 30%. Together Corina/Corvinone & Rondinella must make up 75% of the grapes. Other grapes which can make up to 25% (but rarely exceed 10% in better examples) include Molinara (which used to be compulsory); Oseleta; Dindarella; Rossignola and Negrara. “Other” in most cases below are varying amounts of these last 4.

Wine labelled as simply “Valpolicella”, “Valpolicella Classico” or “Valpolicella Superiore” are made as any other wine. Until early in this century the only other wines of note were made by drying the grapes for at least 2 but commonly 4 months after harvest and crushing the resulting dried grapes. This allows a potential alcohol of getting on for 16%. Most of the wine is fermented to dryness, emphasising the bitterness in the dried skin and labelled “Amarone della Valpolicella”. A small proportion of these wines have fermentation stopped at normal alcohol levels leaving substantial unfermented sugar and yielding Recioto, an impressive sweet wine – at impressive prices unfortunately; a sort of cherry-port wine with normal alcohol levels and some acidity.

Recently winemakers have taken to adding the lees (or “pomace”) of the Amarone or Recioto to the younger normal wine – as it were: re-passing over the lees and imparting some of the dried grape flavours. This is called Ripasso and now is the most common form of Valpolicella.

Kim showed us 2 exampes each of Valpolicella; Ripasso and Amarone

Here are my notes:

VALPOLICELLA 2017 (ALLEGRINI)   –   £12 Wine Society   –   13%
Corvina/Corvinone 70%; Rondinella 30%.
This has a slightly spirit and oily note on the nose, quite a lot of red fruit, some of it cherry. Palate is warm with sharp cherry and plum notes, slightly bitter but tasty tannins and some toasty hints, a little simple but pleasing and chill-able.

VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2016 (TEDESCHI)   –   £12 Wine Society   –   13.5%
Corvina 35%; Corvinone 35%; Rondinella 20%; others 10%.
Rounder nose with some similarities on the nose, fruit more recessed and some woody notes. Palate has more non-fruit elements: leather? And more vinous complexity, more serious, more food-friendly acidity and very good value.

VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2016 “CAPITEL SAN ROCCO” (TEDESCHI)   –   £18 Wine Society   –   14.5%
Corvina 30%; Corvinone 30%; Rondinella 30%; others 10%.
This nose has significant wood and alcohol on the nose, giving a slightly grainy note too. Palate is a bit bitter, shows a spirit element and a tendency towards muddiness again and sweet fruit not-quite-integrated in a drying palate. Too young and a little unbalanced right now, but may open.

VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2016 “LA CASETTA”   –   £18 Majestic   –   14%
Corvina 65%; Corvinone 15%; Rondinella 10%; others 10%
Much fresher Ripasso nose – some red fruit, dusty herbs and plums… Palate is sweeter, a little linear but showing hints of fruit cake and round tannins. Very satisfying and well balanced – a cheese wine?

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA “MARNE 180” 2015 (TEDESCHI)   –   £32 Fareham   –   16%
Corvina 35%; Corvinone 35%; Rondinella 20%; others 10%.
This has the full fruit-cake, Xmas-pudding nose, plum and a hint of alcohol. Palate has a big texture, warm with some spice and slightly grainy tannin, again an impression of youth and slightly unintegrated. A big wine with great food matching potential.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2013 (TOMMASI)   –   £48 Millisema   –   15%
Corvina 50%; Corvinone 15%; Rondinella 30%; Oselta 5%
Nose has a much softer fruit, berry fruits even blueberry! A better balanced range of vinous elements too – some sharper notes and some light spices. Palate is rounder and softer without unintegrated components, some spice again warm acidity, velvet tannins and a lovely twist of bitterness. The overall impression of the fruit recalls a summer berry fruit salad made a couple of days before and starting to show hints of fermentation. A well-integrated gentle giant of a wine – very impressive but quite expensive.

A very interesting tasting, showing that the styles offer a series of different quality/price conundrums. The Tedeschi wines all seemed a little young to be fair, and all had a big-boned quality, that might mean time was envisaged by the makers.. The other 3 seemed more subtle – but sometimes that speaks of a shorter future. The exception is the – older – last wine which was just lovely, although not showing, what I have come to think of, typical Amarone size. I liked that wine best, then and there in the tasting – but the Tedschi Superiore was great value and the Ripassi (especially La Casetta right now) were a great compromise!

Thanks so much Kim for a thought provoking tasting.

À Bientôt

JULY SOCK CLUB

The Group met for a blind-Tasting party on Friday 26^th July, hosted by Kathryn and Matt. A lovely evening with, as it turned out, a unusual link between half the wines…

Here are my notes:

KAIKEN BRUT nv   Argentina                       Welcome Wine
A citric nose with a frothy mousse. Nose and palate develop towards grapefruit acidity and open to a slightly sweet orchard fruit. A light and lively Brut with an aperitif profile!

GRÜNER VELTLINER 2012 (Holzmann)    Weinvertel          Anna   
Nose has some deeper fruit flavour – apricot? Green apple notes and the usual tell-tale pepper hint. The palate has richer, creamier notes showing its evolution, Good length and underlying refreshment…

PECORINO 2017 (Umani Ronchi)    Tuscany       Sue T  
Nose has pear fruit, and some floral notes that deepen to a hint of almonds in a very Italian style. The palate is rich with a, slightly mealy, fruit profile and warm, round acidity.

PIGATO RISERVA 2018  (Laura Aschero)    Liguria          Kathryn  
Pigato is a grape found quite commonly in Liguria, and DNA profiling shows it is the same grape as Vermentino despite finding their homes independently (Vermentino is also sometimes known as  Rolle in France). This example has a pungent nose with slightly pithy and oily notes. Palate follows the nose with a lifting round acidity and a slightly bitter note.

FIANO IGP 2017 (Maree d’Ione)     Puglia     Yvonne  
Fiano is perhaps better known from Avellino or the Sannio area of Campania. This shares those versions lightness and verve, making it a very fish-friendly wine – however this example has a slightly herby and exotic fruit tinge making it seem a little bigger flavoured. Crisp acidity and quite long lasting, a surprisingly poised hot-climate white!

JACKSON-TRIGGS OKANAGAN ESTATE RIESLING 2016   British Columbia          Paul
Forward diesel and elderflower nose – very reminiscent of some Oregon examples. It turns out this is not that far away to the North. Very Riesling with a Mosel style level of sweetness in a richer package – succulent, supple and lovely!

TRINITY HILLS MARSANNE/VIOGNIER 2017   Gimlett Gravels N.Z.         Kim
Very nutty, creamy nose, with a hint of oak in a very white-Burgundy style. But is isn’t that – the palate has an oily profile with some olive and herb notes and a rich, warm length. A Rhone-ish blend done well on the gravel in Hawke’s Bay.

VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI PINOT NERO 2014   Dolomites                       Ann
This has a light red-fruit nose with a light peppery tinge. The palate has fruit and a sharp-acid, food-demanding, line. This wine has the mark of some cooler growing sites, would be lovely with a roast pork dish.

CHIANTI RISERVA  2006 (San Colombano)    Tuscany           Laurie   
Red fruit but earthy nose, with fruit cake (spice and dried fruit) elements appearing. Palate has some liquorice and an echo of the nose. Clearly a mature, and very typical, Chianti.

“ALTITUDES” 2013 (IXSIR)    Lebanon       Sue Mc 
Another earthy nose, darker fruit and some warm spice. Palate has the same profile with sweeter-than-expected fruit and a wide tannic line.

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2015  (Boscarelli)    Tuscany          John  
Herbs and cherry fruit at first with the fruit broadening into a softer note. The palate is similar with an acidic line, plum-prune fruit and a warm long finish. Some Chianti-like character and complexity with a rounder fruit base and a slight mineral hint lifting the very end… This is 85% Prugnolo – the Montepulciano clone of Sangiovese! And it’s lovely (my favourite of the night).

XINOMAVRO 2016 (Alpha Estates)     Amyndeon, Greece     Matt 
Sweet plum nose, leading to a grenache-like sweet plum tomato line, offset – at least in part – with a supple acidity. If the Pinot Nero showed its cooler origins this speaks of warmth!

PISANO “CISPLATINO” TANNAT 2017    Uruguay          Mike
Pungency with nutty elements, some prune and spice notes underneath. The palate is very supple and rather different from Madiran tannic monsters, with a little woodiness and a blackberry fruit within a (relatively) gentle tannic frame.

CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2015 (Sertosso)   Tuscany                   Rob
Rather leather/liquorice, typical Italian, nose with a Xmas cake hint – baking spice more than dried fruit at this stage. Some sour fruit and a warm tannic frame persisting longest. A food wine that maybe needs another year or two.

PAULINSHOF RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2014     Mosel                  Farewell Wine   
A diesel, peach, sweet fruit and honeyed wine with that lovely lifting Riesling acidity. A pure pleasure and a fitting vinous conclusion to a lovely evening.

An interesting evening when Italy played a surprisingly large part: not a single French wine and seven Italians! Three from Tuscany, three Italian whites and a North Italian Pinot. Very unexpected and very enjoyable…

Partly because I have been unable to attend a Sock Club Tasting since February, I particularly appreciated and enjoyed this one. Faultlessly welcomed by our knowledgeable and generous hosts, it was a real pleasure to indulge in the sociable hedonism of the group – my profound thanks to everyone and especially to Kathryn and Matt.

À Bientôt

JULY ICC TASTING NOTES – VICTORIA AND CHALONNAISE

On Thursday 18^th July the ICC Group met to compare Wines from Victoria and Burgundy – both white (Chardonnay) and red (Pinot Noir). This tasting partly followed an eye-opening tasting of Antipodean Pinot (see post of March 8^th 2017) a couple of years ago, and the Jancis Robinson quotation cited in the Theme post last week. Both of these showed Australia can make wines in cooler climates from Burgundy grapes very well – but how well?

For each grape 3 wines were served blind one each from the Yarra Valley, Gippsland (both in Victoria) and Mercurey, (in the Côte Chalonnaise). The wines are all around £20 in UK. I chose the same wineries for both red and white wines.

Hoddles Creek Estate, established in 1997, is located in the Upper Yarra, which is higher, cooler and more marginal than the lower Yarra, The Estate is planted with 10ha of Pinot Noir (five clones), 6 ha of chardonnay, Being in a marginal climate, requires extensive canopy management. Over the last decade it has been focusing on minimal chemical use in the vineyard, and claim they are starting to see the benefits of health soils and vines with more balanced wines. It works the vineyards for low yields (below 33 hl/ha).

Wickham Road is a 8 hectare vineyard planted solely to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is cool, free draining and the vines are 17 years old. During the winter months, sheep are used to reduce the reliance on chemical control for weeds and grasses. The resulting wines require no acidification or fining.

Domaine Pillot is a family wine business over 150 years old in Mellecey a village in the Mercurey commune. The domaine has 17 hectares throughout the appellation and practice La lutte raisonnée (a sort of minimum intervention) in the vineyard. Appropriately the wines have a reputation for lightness and delicacy.

The serving order was random – so the following notes follow the order in which the wines were served (before their identity was know). First, the Chardonnays:

WICKHAM ROAD 2017   Gippsland, Victoria   –  12.8%  –  Stone, Vine & Sun  – £19
Slightly nutty nose. Palate has fresh acidity with pithy note – seeming to tighten with time. There is orchard fruit, bright but slightly soft. Acidity persists and eventually becomes the main character.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^14.5/₂₀   Value:  ^13.5/₂₀

MERCUREY 2016 (Pillot) Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy  –  13%  –  3D – £21
This has a more citric and lighter nose, some oak giving a creamy texture building to a slightly bitter mineral end. The fruit line is hidden in the acidity making the wine develop more in the glass than the other example. Less striking but more subtle???
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀

HODDLES CREEK 2016  Yarra Valley,Victoria  –  13.2%  –  Stone, Vine & Sun  – £22
Nutty notes again, with a palate more restrained and lighter than the first wine, but clearly in the same style. Balanced, long and correct – very well made…
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀

The popular vote had the Yarra Valley wine as best white (9 votes) followed by the Mercurey (7) and the Gippsland (6)

Secondly the Pinots:

MERCUREY 1er Cru “En Sazenay” 2015 (Pillot) Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy  –  13%  –  3D – £21
Light and bright colour with a herb and plum nose. Quiet but insistent palate with soft red fruit (hints of cherry) a line of warm acidity and subtle grip with a spice note accentuating a very Pinot character. Very good and my favourite…
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁷/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

HODDLES CREEK 2016 Yarra Valley, Victoria  –  13.2%  –  Stone, Vine & Sun  – £23
Darker with a herbal nose, red fruit too and again on the palate with a slightly bitter bay leaf twist to the acidity. To my taste a good but slightly one-dimensional red.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

WICKHAM ROAD 2017 Gippsland, Victoria  –  13%  –  Stone, Vine & Sun  – £19
Slightly brownish colour and a quiet nose, fruity palate but little else. This had little vinous quality and as a consequence I would probably avoid it!
Ratings:        Quality:  ^12.5/₂₀   Value:  ^11.5/₂₀

The popular vote had the Yarra Valley wine as best red (10 votes) followed by the Mercurey (8) and the Gippsland (5). Though, funnily enough, no supporters of the Gippsland red followed through to choosing it a best wine overall – despite two-thirds of those present choosing a red. Clearly those that liked the last red are white wine drinkers!!??

Wine-of-the-night voting went (in serving order) 1 – 2 – 5 – 7 – 8 – 0

So the Yarra Valley estate won the night overall (as well as the separate white and red votes) with 13 supporters, the Mercurey 9 and the Gippsland 1.
For me the whites very much closer, although I can’t help thinking – for the price – a decent Chablis (or maybe a Pernand-Vergelesses) might beat them all. I thought the Yarra Pinot surprisingly good but lacking just a little subtlety and complexity compared to the Burgundy. The Gippsland red showed the worst qualities of New World Pinot, IMO although their white was much better. My scores have Mercurey leading 32 to 31 for the Yarra, with Gippsland trailing in with 27.

An interesting tasting – I was impressed by the Yarra – though not enough to seek Victorian wines out, especially considering one can get £20-in-UK wines in Burgundy itself at around the €13 mark… must go there again soon…

À Bientôt

DOUBLE TASTING NOTES: May’s Tutored Tasting – Gigondas v Chateauneuf & May’s ICC Tasting – North v South Islands of NZ.

Two sets of Notes for the price of one this month – A Tutored Tasting and an ICC Tasting I led on New Zealand…

A group of 11 W1NG members met at the Brigitte Bordeaux Wine Emporium on Bank holiday Monday, 6th May, for a Southern Rhone 2011,
Châteauneuf du Pape v Gigondas tasting. This was a wine society case purchased en primeur in September 2015.

1-Domaine du Cayron  Gigondas 14%  £18
78% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 6% Cinsault and 2% Mourvèdre
This had a powerful nose with nice volatile acidity. The palate was light with some liquorice notes. There was sour cherry and soft tannins. One of the group said this was their favourite and four would buy it.

2- The Society Châteauneuf du Pape £17.50 (Vignobles Mayard)
65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre
Nice acidity, more serious nose than last one, richer, non fruit flavours of liquorice and garrigue, thyme and rosemary.

3- Domaine Raspil-Ay Gigondas 15% £19
80% Grenache, 15% Syrah 5% Mourvèdre
This was very soft but with good acidity. Plummy fruit. Some port qualities.

4- Chateau Mont Redon Châteauneuf du Pape 15%  £20
60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 8% Mourvedre and others
Sweet orange peel, light fruit and a little spicy, vegetal, quite simple. The group’s least favourite overall.

5- Domaine La Bouissiere   Gigondas  15%  £19
70% Grenache 25% Syrah 5% Mourvedre
A little medicinal on the nose, mineral, tarragon, liquorice, not mainstream, more complex. Good. Two of the group’s favourite.

6- Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 14.5%  £36
65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre 5% Cinsault
Restrained style, good balance and good acidity. lighter than expected. Quite a closed nose, lots of red fruit flavours and very long. 8 of the group said this was their favourite but were not all convinced it was worth the extra money.

An  interesting tasting. Overall the Gigondas were maybe a little more rustic, less powerful  and simpler than the Chateauneuf du Pape’s but they stood up very well and in some instances were better. Thanks to Matt and Kathryn for opening Brigitte Bordeaux for us.

Plus Corkmaster’s thanks to John and Ann for sourcing the wines, conducting the Tasting and the above notes.

 

Ten days later, after my excursion to Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda (see two posts ago…) it was my turn to lead a tasting of
New Zealand Wine: North Island v South Island. A tasting that had been near the top of the poll for Themes this year.
I decided to show three pairs of wines, all sourced from The New Zealand House of Wine. The wines were served blind and I tried to encourage expression of  simple preference before trying to guess which was which.

Here are my notes:

The first pair were a Marlborough and a Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc, each about £12.

WINE A had a nettle nose with some exotic fruit, later a hint of something in the Asparagus direction (I think of this as a fault). The palate had gooseberry and hgh acidity, grapefruit and a little green.
Ratings:    Voting: 10 preferred this wine.       My scores:    Quality:  ¹⁴/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀       

WINE B was darker but with slightly more restrained nose, the acidity was warmer giving a richer impression but more pliant and citric. Some chalky minerality at the end. Although a slightly bigger package it seemed more balanced and complex and therefore less boring.
Ratings:        Voting: 16 preferred this wine.       My scores:    Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

 

It turns out Wine A was from the South Island – 

KIM CRAWFORD 2017 (Marlborough)       

Wine B was from the North Island –

TRINITY HILL WHITE LABEL 2016 (Hawkes Bay)

 

 

We then moved on to two Pinot Noir  each for about £17 – one each from Otago and Martinborough

Wine C had some farmyard and a herbal hint, with soft, even mashed red fruit. The palate had a slightly bitter “squeezed pip” quality and the whole package seemed soft and a bit grainy to me.
Ratings:    Voting: 10 preferred this wine.       My scores:    Quality:  ¹⁴/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀       

Wine D had more fragrant fruit, slightly sweet but less over-ripe. The palate had a crunchier sharper fruit and some clean tannic structure, darker fruit and a herbacious tinged tannic finish. Again a cleaner, better balanced more effortless package.
Ratings:    Voting: 18 preferred this wine.       My scores:    Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀       

 

It turns out Wine C was from the South Island – 

CARRICK UNRAVELLED 2017 (Otago)

Wine D was from the North Island –

PALLISER ESTATE 2016  (Martinborough)

 

 

 

The final pair were two £19 Syrah, again from Marlborough and Hawkes Bay:

Wine E had a nose of slightly pithy olive and black fruit. The palate was grainy but supple and structured with a black fruit acidity and a tinge of salinity. Quite a persuasive Syrah
Ratings:    Voting: 16 preferred this wine.       My scores:    Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁴/₂₀   

Wine F had a much quieter nose with a palate of sweeter fruit, hints of blueberry and some soft tannins. A passable wine, with the lack of Syrah character a double-edged thing IMHO. However a simpler, slightly overdone wine.
Ratings:    Voting: 9 preferred this wine.       My scores:    Quality:  ^14.5/₂₀   Value:  ^13.5/₂₀       

 

It turns out Wine E was from North Island –

TRINITY HILL GIMBLETT GRAVELS 2015 (Hawkes Bay)

and Wine F from the South Island –

SERESIN ESTATE 2016 (Marlborough)      

 

 

So an interesting result. The majority preferred the North Island Wine of each pair – with a combined score of 50 to 29! I concurred with those preferences, strongly, and surprisingly so in the case of the Pinot Noir, of which the Martinborough was my favourite of the night. I also noted that of the first two pairs – the North Island Wine had lower alcohol and wore it’s heat and richness more lightly. The final wine was less clear to me – I find Syrah a bit grainy at the best of times – but the South Island wines all seemed a bit muddy, maybe over-extracted and somehow trying-too-hard… Of course this is a small sample, easily explained by individual grower or terroir factors.. However a bit of a surprise – and something to think about with future NZ sampling.

À Bientôt

A VISIT TO LA GITANA

“La Gitana” (the Gypsy woman) is actually the name of the most famous wine produced by the Hidalgo Company in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, about 15 miles West of Jerez. The Hildago family began the business in 1792, and it’s now run by the eighth generation. Making Solera-system Manzanilla fina from the 19th Century, it now constitues about 80% of their production and the cavernous, cathedral-like Solera-stores house over 4,000 barrels of Manzanilla.

Here’s a slide show of some of those barrels:

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The name La Gitana emerged in the the later 19th Century when an otherwise anonymous Gypsy women used to travel to Sanlucar from Malaga to source the Manzanilla most popular at her wine bar. It is thought most buyers came to refer to this wine as “el vino de la Gitana”, though perhaps the connection was amplified by a love affair between this woman and a member of the family. Either way a painting of her still adorns the wall in the old office among late 19th and early 20th Century ledgers.

The name and the image have adorned the bottles ever since.

Pale sherry, aged under a protective covering of flor (a yeast that seals out air from the fortified wine and allows biological rather than oxidative aging) is commonly called Fino in Jerez – but Manzanilla in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The differences most commonly identified are a gentler overall profile to manzanilla, but higher saline mineral components. These are usually attributed to sea influence, but are sometimes thought to be in the vineyard. However the wine makers claim this is not the case – many Palomino grapes for Manzanilla are grown nearer to Jerez. The sea influence is thought to happen in the winery where the very old solera barrels sit. They are on land that was once below the Estuary of the Guadalquivir river, and salt water is within a few metres of the barrels, cooled (relatively compared to Jerez} by Atlantic breezes and usually at about 70% humidity. This leads to thicker flor, softer development and salt tinges.

A La Gitana barrel with the flor clearly visible.

I’ve often wondered how barrels of Manzanilla (or Fino) are topped up without disrupting the flor, and Elena, the La Gitana guide, explained it to us. A finger-thick closed steel pipe is plunged through the flor to the middle of the barrel and wine added through small (shower-head type) holes in the last few centimeters of the pipe, now well below the flor. When the proper level is reached the pipe is withdrawn quickly and straight through the flor and the small rupture seals itself quite quickly…

There are apparently two stories how the name of Manzanilla originates. One is that the colour of the wine resembles Chamomile (Manzanilla in Spanish); the other is that local shortages of grapes used to result in buying them in from a town called Manzanilla, some miles west in Huelva.

The solera system for La Gitana, founded in the early 19th century, is made up of 14 tiers, with a high refreshment rate and an average bottling age of around 4 or 5 years.

The Solera system of making sherry may be familiar to most readers, and to explain is is worth a post on its own. So if you want to know more click on this link: Solera System Explained to the excellent Food and Wines of Spain website!

We tasted 6 wines:

La Gitana Manzanilla – Light, with floral, saline and  nutty notes a hint of apple and a clean mineral finish. Very clean and precise.

An En Rama (bottled when the flor is thickest and less filtered) version of the same wine – Cloudy but with more complexity and fruit

Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada – A single vineyard version with about double the age of La Gitana – More substance though no less salt, dried fruit – especially lemon, herbs and salted nuts, warm acidity at the finish. very good and nearly my favourite…

Napoleón Amontillado – 15 year old amontillado, with warm flavours of fruit, peel, nuts, floral hints and warm saltiness. Moreish, balanced and versatile with food, just a great wine – my favourite!

Alameda Cream – a cream sherry made with 30% PX in it. A reverse version of the English favourite derived from Drake’s sacking of Cadiz and taking 3,000 barrels of Oloroso to England, where it was found too dry and was “creamed” by adding caramel. Actually this is a bit creamy and has some caramel but the sweetness pitch makes it seem too simple and a bit one-dimensional.

Triana PX – This is a full Pedro Ximénez. Though, in company with all the house’s wines, less intense and a little more elegant than most examples. It isn’t really as much a wine as a syrup and I’d eat it as part of dessert rather than drink it with dessert. That said it drinks more easily than most…

A lovely tasting and tour. Thanks to Carrie for her company and to Elena of La Gitana for her information.

Hasta la vista…

MARCH SOCK CLUB TASTING NOTES

While the UK Government could not decide if the whole nation was to shoot itself in the head – or merely the stomach, Corkmaster and Kimberley Kabinett took themselves off to a civilised country for the duration – although of course it might not be the duration.. or it might… or not…. FFS!

A group of 9 of the people remaining (no pun intended) attended a Sock Party graciously held by Ann and John. This was rather “off piste” with the white wines following the reds and by all accounts an enjoyable and rather rowdy party. Ann reports: “I for one found it refreshing to move on to whites after food including a palate cleansing lemon sorbet, though it wasn’t a great test as we only had 2 whites and then a bonus dessert wine. Can’t say the hangover was any less, though hopefully the reds got more thoughtful consideration than they usually do?!”

Ann also generously supplied the following notes, and photos from John:

ABEL CHARLOT BRUT NV CHAMPAGNE (Welcome Wine)
50% Chardonnay, 25% e@ Pinot.  There is some reserve wine blended in for extra richness. Found to be punching above its current price. A good mousse, light lemon flavour with  some butteriness and pleasing length which was satisfyingly dry.

VARVAGLIONE,  “12 e mezzo” ORGANIC PRIMITIVO , IGT PUGLIA 2015  (Mike)
Bramble fruit and violets on the nose, powerful but smooth.

PAMUKKALE SARAPEILIK , ANFORA TRIO, AEGEAN REGION, TURKEY 2016   (Yvonne)
Blend of indigenous Turkish grape 40% Kalecik Karasi with 40% Shiraz and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Honey on the nose, dark cherry coffee low tannin unoaked.

CHÂTEAU LA POINTE, POMEROL, 2013, BORDEAUX, FRANCE  (John)
From wine society en primeur.  Plum and earthiness on the palate with a lovely complexity and length  Merlot 85% Cabernet Franc 15%

CONO SUR,  20 BARRELS LIMITED EDITION PINOT NOIR- 2016. FROM EL TRIANGULO ESTATE,  CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE.    (Sue Mc)
Not a typical pinot, had some of the cherry and strawberry but complexity with leather and tobacco. 20 best barrels from the harvest bottled on their own.

CHÂTEAU PRADEAUX BANDOL ROUGE, 2006   (Rob)
95%+ Mourvedre from old vines. Lovely dense  flavour of macerated plums and blackcurrants, ripe tannins.

VENUS  LA UNIVERSAL, DIDO , MONSANT 2015   (Yuan)
Grenache as majority, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Syrah Purchased from cellar door on a weekend in Catalunya, Thanks Yuan. Montsant surrounds Priorat “like a bangle on a wrist” Delicious fruitiness with length.
Per Decanter A blend of Garnatxa with Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot, organically grown on decomposed granites near Falset.  The appeal is less primary and less fleshy than for many of its Montsant peers: calm, fine-drawn plant and stony earth scents with an elegant, layered style, though open-textured and accessible.   91

MASTROBERANDINO, LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO  2015    (Mark)
100% Piedirosso from Campania, on the slopes of Vesuvius the “tears of Christ on Vesuvius” Jesus’ tears dropping at the foot of Vesuvius  ultimately sparked the miraculous growth of the vines. Piedirosso is the second most planted red after Aglianico. Floral spicy and powerful.

FALERNIA ELKI, PEDRO XIMINEZ 2017, ELQUI VALLEY, CHILE  (Sue T)
2016 vintage given 90 points and Highly Recommended by Decanter  as festive buy.

ONDA NOVA VIOGNIER, 2014, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL    (Ann)
This was purchased following a tasting at this estate owned by Cliff Richard which happened  to be very near our villa. This was surprisingly rich with a taste of peach but sufficiently dry to not be cloying,

DOMAINE  HAAG, GEWURTZTRAMINER GRAND CRU ZINNKOEPFLE, VENDAGES TARDIVES 2008, ALSACE   (Bonus Dessert wine, John)
This was a medium sweet wine not cloying and went quite well with our lemon tart.
Fun story to this one- we were at Carcassonne airport and a slightly panicked man approached us with two bottles of this. He’d been gifted these by his landlady but only had luggage booked for his flight home. We offered to take them off his hands and managed to squash them into our case with 4 other bottles already packed in! We did look for him at East Midlands airport but couldn’t see him as we would have offered to return one!

Ann thanks everyone for coming along, “it was a great night” – and I thank her for providing these notes!

À Bientôt

FEBRUARY SOCK CLUB

A small but very discerning group made their way to darkest Burton Joyce to partake of Yvonne’s hospitality and sample wines, as is our custom.

Here are my notes:

CHAMPAGNE NICOLAS FEUILLATTE VINTAGE BRUT 2000  Welcome Wine
Nicolas Feuillatte is actually a co-op at Chouilly in the Côte des Blancs vineyards. This has a slightly oxidised note and slightly darkened hue, but underneath the sherry hints are some signs of ripe peach. The oxidation seems to have, more than anything else, taken out the acidity which is limited and warm feeling, but leaves a very sweet soft fruit and a short but creamy mousse.

“WHITE ON GREY” MOSHOFILERO 2017 (Mitravelas)          Yvonne   
Slightly peach-tinged citric nose, quite creamy too but with a brackish element. Palate is similar, with a creamy texture, a saline mineral prickle and a vaguely Alsacienne profile: richness and a slightly spicy, smokey hint… Good

SANTENAY BLANC “SAINT-JEAN” 2013 (MARK HAISMA)      Laurie
The wine has 12 months in old oak with fruit from a named parcel just above (north) of Le Haut Village in Santenay (see June 14^th 2015 post for an earlier note). Quite an aromatic nose – richer than earlier with a ripe white peach note and some citrus. The palate has a warm minerality and long acidic – grapefruit? – backbone, but a substantial, rich, soft stone-fruit succulence that makes a satisfying, well balanced, and probably at-peak wine. Rather good!

VAU JAUMIER 2015, ST. NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL (Domaine de la Cotelleraie)           Kim  
I’ve followed this wine for 3 or 4 vintages now, and it’s my favourite SNdB. Quite sharp when young, this now has a herby nose with a bay leaf element, and red fruit with an earthy under-note… very Cabernet Franc. Palate is rich with a lovely supple red-fruit acid, raspberry or redcurrant and a hint of spice at the finish. Still young but much more developed than a year ago and already deeper and more complex than the (pretty good) 2014. Excellent!

“ORFEO” 2010 (Prieure La Chaume – Vix, Vendée)          John  
This is from the Vendée, where the AOC/AOP is Fiefs Vendéens. The department is part of the Loire although the wine areas are 70 miles South or South-West of Muscadet and Anjou respectively. This is 60% Merlot (+35% Cab. Sauvignon & 5% Negrette) which I think is the reason it is an IGP. Nose has very ripe dark fruit – slightly pruney dried fruit character with a cherry spirit hint, all rather Italian-ish! The palate too is rich and earthy with a fruit acid line echoing the nose and some non-fruit leathery hints… I’d guess at Ripasso, certainly not a Loire Merlot!? … but a luscious wine nevertheless!

HERDADE DOS GROUS 2016           Ann
This wine, from Alentejo, is (apparently): Aragonez (35%); Alicante Bouschet (30%); Touriga Nacional (20%) and Syrah (15%) – fermented in lagares and aged in new French oak barriques. One can detect the oak on the nose as both a woody and a creamy hint underneath red and plum fruit. The palate has firmer oak frame and some spicy  tinges under a slightly earthy plum, prune tannic shape.

“MARQUES CASA CONCHA” SYRAH 2016 (Concha y Toro)         Rob
Quite classic Syrah notes: blackberry, salt and a hint of wood. The palate has a sweet fruit line – more blueberry than blackberry and the slightly spicy tannins close with the oak to form a drying, food-needing finish… which is exactly what we gave it!

A very enjoyable (and wonderfully well-paced with a smaller number) evening of company, wine and food. Thanks for your hospitality Yvonne.

Finally, although she’s much to modest to tell you herself, Kathryn, long time stalwart and now co-leader of the WING group, is featured in the latest Wine Merchant magazine – on the front page and on pp 20-21. If you’re Nottingham-based worth trying the shop / bar “Brigitte Bordeaux”.

À Bientôt

FEBRUARY ICC TASTING NOTES – EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN

On Thursday 14th February the ICC group met for a Tasting of wines from Lebanon, backed up with other E. Med. offerings from Cyprus, Santorini and Israel. The question relating to this tasting is if we can discern anything specifically Eastern Mediterranean about the wines.

Here are my notes:

“PETRITIS” (KYPEROUNDA WINERY, CYPRUS) 2017   –   13½ %   –   TheDrinkShop £13
This wine, 100% Xynisteri, has and slightly oaked nose – with melon fruit and a vaguely Chardonnay weight. The palate has sweet fruit – Galia melon and the same structure as a richer Chardonnay too, some acidity but the sweetish balance offset more by a gravelly minerality and some spice… a little plump IMO.
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁵/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

THALASSITIS (GAIA, SANTORINI) 2017   –   13 %   –   TheDrinkShop  £18
Citrus nose with a light salty impression. Palate is clean and refreshing and a line of grapefruit acidity and hints of a sour peach… rather food friendly with a saline minerality…
Ratings:        Quality:  ^15.5/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁵/₂₀

MASSAYA BEKAA VALLEY ROSÉ 2017   –   13½ %   –   Tanners  £16
This is the onion skin pink of a good Provencal Rosé, and it resembles it in many ways, being 100% Cinsault!  This has a genuine hint of strawberry fruit (rather than a suggested metaphor) and lovely fruit acidity and some mineral… very balanced and very enjoyable!
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

MASSAYA “LE COLOMBIER” BEKAA VALLEY 2017   –   14½ %   –   Tanners  £15
Hints of mint / eucalyptus / menthol on the nose and a warm dark fruit. Palate is rich with a chocolate texture, some spice and mineral supporting a plum – prune fruit… developing herby notes later in a rather Southern Rhone style (Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache make up 85% of the assemblage, together with Tempranillo!) and rather a good version!
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁶/₂₀   Value:  ¹⁶/₂₀

CLOS DE GAT HAR’EL JUDEAN HILLS SYRAH 2013   –   14½ %   –   Tanners  £21
Big blackberry, salty, prune notes. Palate has a sweet fruit, some woody notes and alcohol burn in a rather Californian big Shiraz style. The fruit resolution is slightly sweet with salty counterpoint making the overall impression a bit cloying and “heavy” – that said the wine’s lack of development makes it seem somehow insubstantial.
Ratings:        Quality:  ^14.5/₂₀   Value:  ^13.5/₂₀

CHÂTEAU MUSAR (HOCHAR, BEKAA VALLEY) 2010   –   13½ %   –   Tanners  £29
This was a very hot dry year and Musar lost about half of its Cabernet to drying out. So the mix is about equally Cinsault, Carignan and Cabernet with – especially the last – contributing dried berries. The result is amazing with hints of oily Amarone-style bitter cherry, some prune and some savoury notes in a sprity package. The palate is balanced by lovely supple acidity with some Italianate leather hints, very ripe plum fruit and some spice. One would probably guess at a, very good, Amarone – but this has a slightly wild complexity. Just fabulous and worth the money IMO…. I wish I’d bought more
Ratings:        Quality:  ¹⁸/₂₀   Value:  ^15.5/₂₀

A very interesting tasting, with the Lebanese wines all out-shining the other examples – making them look a little simple or clumsy or both.

To the original question – is there anything specifically E. Mediterranean-ish about the wines – the answer is an unsurprising No!
The Island wines were rather specific and might well work with very specific food. I, at least, can imagine drinking the Santorini well-chilled while eating grilled sardines on a beach… The Israeli wine was big and very… well… New World in style, whereas the Lebanese wines were decidedly old world: two French and the Musar (very memorably) rather Italian.
Musar is a phenomenon!  I have probably tasted 15 or so vintages over the last 20 years and they are always different: different blends; different styles but always good, a sign of a great winemaker. I have to say, though, that this 2010 was the most impressive of all – an early contender for wine-of-the-year. Mmmmmmm

À Bientôt

FEBRUARY TUTORED TASTING – VERTICAL MADIRAN

On Monday February 4th the WING Tutored Tasting Group met for a Madiran Tasting, led by Laurie and showing wines from Domaine Pichard. The featured wines were their Traditional Cuvée from 2007 – 2011 and a special Cuvée from 2004: “Auguste Vigneau”.

Madiran is a wine area in South-West France, North of Pau and about 60 miles East, inland, from the Atlantic Ocean. It is approximately a 25 mile sided square, just South of the Armagnac area and comprises 38  communes and straddles 3 departments (Gers, Hautes-Pyrénées & Pyrénées-Atlantiques). A village in the centre of the area gives Madiran its name, but is the appellation for red wines only – whites from exactly the same area are called Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh.

The climate is warm and dry, although less so than further inland, in Gaillac for example. The area is made up of five large, parallel ridges that run roughly north-south, marking the transition between the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Landes, the forested coastal plains just south of Bordeaux. The most common soils here are limestone-rich clay (more to the West, producing robust long lived wines) and relatively free-draining silts, rich in minerals, along the valleys – giving supple more complex wines. Soils often studded with pebbles laced with iron and manganese oxide, which brings a reddish tinge to some vineyards, this soil is more to the East giving (relatively) more delicate wines.  The main river here is the Adour, which lies just to the east of Madiran village. The area has fairly high rainfall, mainly in in the spring, a hot summer, an autumn of still warm days combined with ideal cool nights creating a thermal variation favouring a full maturity of the tannins.

And tannins are the real story here – the main grape is aptly-named Tannat. It has to be 60% or more and it’s main blending partner is Cabernet Franc, although Cabernet Sauvignon and Fer Servadou are used… Ripe Tannat gives big tannic wines that take from 6 to 15 years to come round, and counterpointing or taming the tannins are the job of the winemaker. Small wonder the the practice of micro-oxygenation started here, although it has had more notable (and controversial) use in Bordeaux!

The Estate we tasted was Domaine Pichard – 12 ha (11 red) of vines situated in Soublecause in the East of the area. The soil here is quartz and clay studded with lydiene pebbles. The Estate produces structured long-lasting wines. Auguste Vigneau and then his nephew René Touchouere built up the Domaine from 1955 to 2005 but then sold to Jean Sentilles and his brother-in-law Rod Cork (a Lancastrian living in Paris). They modernised the winery with new foudres and barriques, and replanted some of the vines.

We tasted the last vintage made by René Touchouere – the 2004 Cuvée “Auguste Vigneau”, and a succession of vintages of the new regime: 2007-2011.

Here are my notes:

2004 Cuvée Auguste Vigneau  (13.5%)
This is  70% Tannat; 25% Cabernet Franc & 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The nose has a brackish quality with some hints of damson fruit, quite heavy… The palate has a sustained line of prominent tannins, not too hard but overpowering any fruit, there is a grainy quality and rather a dull finish suggesting the wine is a little too old.

2007 Cuvée Tradition   (13.5%)
This, and all the following wines, are more or less 60% Tannat / 40% Cab. Franc.
This nose is rather closed only revealing some slightly greenish plum notes later. The tannic “hit” of this wine is more striking but less enduring – forming a peak in the early-mid palate. This has higher acidity and is much fresher than the previous wine.

2008 Cuvée Tradition   (14%)
This has a pungent, vegetal, first nose with a vague dried fruit hint emerging. This is smoother and has acidity and tannins balanced and “smoothed out”. Relatively silky but still a big concentrated wine. Quite satisfying.

2009 Cuvée Tradition    (14.5%)
More open nose with a heavy floral perfume and then a prune note. Sweet (slightly over-ripe?) fruit then a massive tannic hit that persists into the rather harsh finish. This is big and seems much too young, but will any fruit disappear before the tannins soften? Judging by this very hot year’s performance in other areas – maybe!

2010 Cuvée Tradition   (14.5%)
Dark fruit on the nose and some floral notes. Good fresh acidity in a line right to the finish, balancing the high levels of  relatively supple tannin.  The is better integrated, firm but enjoyable and hinting strongly at food. Good – my favourite!

2011 Cuvée Tradition   (14%)
A fruitier nose leading to supple but less fresh palate. This is a slightly lighter style than all the rest, perhaps reflecting a difficult year – but still unresolved  and not that successful.

These are all really (I mean really!) tannic wines, but with the profile of the tannins differing between the wines. Some show the tannins throughout; some early and dropping off; some mounting towards the finish… For me the more successful wines (2008 & 2010) cry out for rich Gascony cuisine, and would be enjoyable in that setting – but otherwise they are too much for most occasions. An interesting venture into dark brooding wines though…

À Bientôt